If you are on the hunt for the world’s most luxuriously textured, layered, perfectly balanced white wines, we have a one word answer for you: Meursault! What, you’ve heard of it? Of course you have! This little hamlet in the heart of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune has been a glorious vision dancing in the heads of wine lovers for centuries. Here, in perfectly situated vineyards growing on shattered limestone and clay, is where Chardonnay is at its most perfect, well, Chardonnay-ishness. And for close to a dozen vintages now, our most popular, best-selling Meursault has been the effortlessly stylish, dazzling masterclass in terroir that is François and Vincent Bitouzet’s “Clos du Cromin.” With super-old vines and a light, deft touch in the cellar, this father/son duo crafts our version of white Burgundy bliss, year in and year out. The latest triumphant vintage has arrived. There’s not much wine: You know what to do!
The Bitouzet and Prieur families have been farming in Meursault and Volnay for hundreds of years. Their Meursault holdings, which hail from the Prieur side, encompass both lieu-dits (a named vineyard with special qualities) and some of the village’s top Premier Crus. The vines that produce today’s wine come from the Clos du Cromin, a single, ancient walled lieu-dit that sits high atop a hill in Meursault’s northern section, just below some of the top Premier Crus. The wines in Bitouzet’s parcel were planted in 1951, so they’re now approaching 75 years of age. This vineyard’s acidic soils combined with its cool, windswept location demand a significantly later harvest than its neighbors. The resulting wine has a deep and pure mineral core, and often requires a few extra years in bottle before reaching maturity. Fortunately for all of us, the wine’s US importer, Neal Rosenthal, is renowned for holding releases a bit longer, until they’re ready to drink. That means that this 2020 has been resting in the cold cellars where it was born until just recently, and, at four years of age, it is now hitting its peak drinking window, where it will remain for the next 3-5 years.
François and Vincent farm all their parcels organically, relying on zero shortcuts with chemicals or systemic treatments, and all of the fruit is harvested by hand. This restraint is echoed in the cellar; juice is vinified gently and slowly with minimal sulfur. The end goal of the entire process is to produce wines that mature in the cellar for many years, and gradually evolve in aromatics and structure. In a region increasingly overrun with estates bottling young, forward, “modern” white Burgundy, the Bitouzet family are arch traditionalists. The family’s wines are seldom open and enjoyable upon release, but they offer a consistently impressive reward to those patient enough to cellar the wines.
The 2020 Meursault Clos du Cromin has a deep, golden straw core moving to green reflections on the rim. The aromas are focused, extremely floral, and mineral, showing classic notes of fresh yellow apple, bosc pear, white peach, acacia and Hawthorn flowers, honey and finely crushed limestone. The palate is medium bodied and slightly creamy with layers of focused minerals, plush fruit and surprisingly bright acidity, giving the hot, dry summer. Though it is basically ready to go right out of the bottle, a quick 30 minute decant really helps to open up the perfume. Serve at cellar temp, or even a touch higher, in large Burgundy stems. Although it is rich, heady, and extremely pleasurable right now, this Meursault is built to last and will improve over the next five to seven years or more, if cellared properly. Those who enjoy the rich nuttiness and white truffle qualities of mature white Burgundy will certainly be rewarded. Serve with a roast chicken, a richly sauced white fish, or your favorite lobster preparation. Did we mention it’s limited? Don’t wait to stock up!
