Imagine drinking history from vines planted before the American Civil War—a glass of 2023 Ana María Cumsille 'Águila' País stands as a striking stylistic cousin to a Cru Beaujolais from Fleurie or a soulful Nerello Mascalese from Mt. Etna. The Itata Valley in southern Chile is a viticultural time capsule, home to 200-year-old, ungrafted País vines that entirely escaped phylloxera. This is the historic "Mission grape" that has practically vanished from California but found its ultimate, unbroken sanctuary here. Itata's ancient granitic soils and cool coastal breezes yield a red of astonishing depth and soul that you simply cannot replicate in the modern wine world.
Enter Ana María Cumsille, one of Chile’s most visionary winemakers, whose mission is to protect these forgotten, small-plot heritage vineyards. Instead of treating País as a rustic field blend, she coaxes out its latent elegance, crafting a wine that perfectly bridges old-world tradition and contemporary precision. Her meticulous, low-intervention approach ensures the centuries-old roots speak clearly, delivering a bottle that balances immense historical gravity with pure, vibrant drinkability.
In the glass, the 2023 'Águila' explodes with a mouth-watering perfume of wild raspberries, crunchy red currants, cracked pink peppercorn, and dried tobacco leaf. The palate is incredibly alive, balancing a juicy, pomegranate-like acidity with fine-grained, chalky tannins that provide a beautifully savory, thirst-quenching finish. This is a riveting, light-to-medium-bodied red that practically begs for a slight chill and a permanent spot at your table. Feel the pulse of 200-year-old viticulture and claim a few bottles of this rare Chilean treasure today.
¡Viva Chile!
Critical Acclaim:
95 Points, Alistair Cooper MW (Catad'Or Wine Guide):
“Cooper showered the 2023 with praise, calling it an "excellent interpretation of the variety" with incredible typicity. He highlighted an aromatic profile of "spiced red fruits, dusty earth, dried tobacco, rosehip, and leather," backed by a palate featuring lovely herbal notes and fine-grained, dusty tannins.”
93 Points, Tim Atkin, Master of Wine:
“In his recent Chile Special Report, Atkin awarded the 2023 vintage a stellar 93 points, reinforcing Cumsille’s rank among the elite, small-scale artisan winemakers redefining the southern regions.”
Descorchados (Patricio Tapia): Top Tier Selection:
“Tapia heavily lauded the 2023 vintage for its beautifully managed "crossover" style. He noted that while it delivers the vibrant, juicy red raspberries, pomegranates, and clean acidity built for the modern palate, it completely preserves the "white pepper funk," earthy undertones, and charmingly rustic tannins inherent to the historic Chilean countryside.”
