If you’d like a one-stop master class on aromatic, meaty, old-school Châteauneuf-du-Pape, you go to Clos du Mont-Olivet. Run by generations of the Sabon family since 1932, and headquartered in a stone house that overlooks the ancient papal castle that gave the town its name, Mont-Olivet is the equivalent of a Châteauneuf winemaking museum.

2007 was a blockbuster vintage in the Southern Rhône, producing wines of richness and texture that are balanced perfectly by a robust structure. Of course Thierry and team took advantage of the excellent growing season to produce generationally great wines. Though the tannins are now softening up, the acidity is still fresh and helps support the deep, brooding style of the vintage. Decant for about 30 minutes, and serve cool in a Burgundy or Bordeaux stem, and you’ll enjoy many layers of black current, spiced cherry, kirsch, star anise, black pepper, garrigue, and leather. At its peak drinking window now and for the next couple of years, this is showstopping Châteauneuf!