Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”
Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”
Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”
Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”

Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”

Beaujolais Cru, France 2021 (750mL)
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Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”


Overall, Bouland is known for a big-boned style of Morgon, but that should not be confused with “fat.” He farms around seven hectares of vineyards, including pieces of some of Morgon’s choicest single vineyards, or lieux-dits: “Corcelette,” “Bellevue,” and “Delys,” all of which boast vines exceeding 60 years of age. Soil structures obviously differ among these three, but a common thread is the heavily granitic subsoil that characterizes much of Morgon and makes its wines some of the most structured and mineral of all the Beaujolais crus. The “Delys” lieu-dit is home to Bouland’s oldest vines, planted in silty-clay loam (“sable”) over granite.

Bouland’s production techniques are straightforward: fermentations are inoculated using only ambient yeasts, and the grape bunches are left intact (no destemming). Aging is carried out in large, used French oak casks and the wines are bottled with minimal fining and filtration.

In the glass, Bouland’s 2021 Morgon “Delys” shows an opaque, dark ruby core with purple reflections throughout. The intense aromatics are a high-powered mix of sweet and savory: ripe blackberry, black plum, and black raspberry mingle with hints of tobacco, wild flowers, lavender, anise, dried herbs, and crushed black rocks. It is mouth-coating, luscious even, but with a structured backbone and freshness I rarely find in ’15-vintage Cru Beaujolais: You can safely lay this wine down for a long slumber, with an expectation of peak drinking between 2026 - 2032. If opening a bottle tonight, which is highly recommended, a quick half-hour decant should do the trick before service in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. And while I always hesitate to call Beaujolais ‘Burgundy-like’—because it is Burgundy—this wine easily rivals the pleasure brought by Côte de Nuits Pinot Noirs costing twice as much. There’s enough dark, savory mineral power here to put this alongside a pot of beef bourguignon, always one of my go-tos when great red Burgundy is on the table. Don’t miss this one: Bouland is it for Cru Beaujolais!

Daniel Bouland, Morgon Vieilles Vignes “Les Delys 1926”
Country
France
Region
Beaujolais Cru
Sub-Region
FranceMorgon
Soil
Silty-Clay over Granite
Farming
Sustainable
Blend
Gamay
Alcohol
13.5
OAK
Used French
TEMP.
60-65
Glassware
Burgundy Stems
Drinking
Now-2032+
Decanting
30 Minutes
Pairing
Beef Bourguignon

France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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