Southern France’s Vin Doux Naturel (VDN), was first made in the 13th century when mutage was discovered. Put simply, this is a process where a neutral spirit is added to prematurely kill yeast and suspend fermentation, leaving a concentrated, sweet wine with elevated alcohol (essentially the same practice used to make Port, but this does not taste like Port!). The Languedoc-Roussillon region has been the traditional home of these wines in appellations such as Maury, Banyuls, and Rivesaltes. 

Today’s Rivesaltes was produced by a historic cooperative in the eastern Pyrénées that was established by eight winemakers in 1909. After the Grenache-dominant base wine was fortified in 1983, it sat in casks for nearly four decades until it was finally discovered by the Gayrals and bottled in 2020 without any additions or treatment.

For gems like this, I must reiterate that it would be a crime to lose it in a cluster of wines at a party, so make sure you’re in a clear state of mind and in a quieter environment with close friends. One or two ounces should be served around 55-60 degrees in an all-purpose stem and savored slowly. Plus, because each sweet sip brings incalculable depth, power, and concentration, there’s no rush to consume your bottle: It can be enjoyed over several weeks and months if placed in the fridge with the cork tightly inserted—or further cellared for decades to come.