A legendary vintage, raw material smuggled from “The Pétrus of Spain,” and the polish/structure of a cult Napa Cab. Although today’s exceedingly limited 2007 library release from Parador Cellars sounds like vinous folklore, it is in fact the rarefied passion project of Steve Ventrello. This two-barrel “Reserva” is a singular, two-vineyard fusion of mountainside Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo that carries its 15 years of age with more grace and splendor than many half-as-old $200 labels! 

Furthermore, its incomparable aging regimen—three years in oak and nearly 12 in bottle—had us making the claim that if Vega Sicilia’s $400 “Unico” was sourced from the Napa Valley, the results would be strikingly similar to this haunting back-vintage beauty. Ventrello’s blending mastery aside, one must also pay homage to (1) the outstanding, über-classic 2007 vintage and (2) the impeccable provenance of today’s parcel, which has never seen a ray of sunlight or more than a few degrees of temperature fluctuation. Again, just two barrels were originally produced, and what little remains is so painfully limited that it’s not even for sale on Steve’s own website! All purchases must be capped at six bottles per person.

Having sold the great wines of the world over a long career as a wine merchant, Steve Ventrello crafts Parador with what might be called a European sensibility. This Cabernet-fueled blend, while in no way lacking in body and structure, is constructed more along old-school Bordeaux lines—he isn’t gunning for “cult wine” status, but rather a powerful, subtly complex red that he’d want to drink both on release and 10-20 years down the line. But this sumptuous red has a crucial blending partner, too, and that’s where the above-mentioned “Spanish twist” comes in: Tempranillo makes up over a third of this stunning 2007! It adds rich, velvety textures and a unique savory imprint that truly has no equal in the entire Napa Valley.

Whether it’s the Mayacamas Range to the west or the Vaca Range to the east, the mountains that flank the Napa Valley are a treasure trove of world-class vineyards, and today’s two sources are brilliant examples. The “Hossfeld” Vineyard, once an overgrown wilderness perched 1,000 feet above the valley floor, was planted to Cabernet Sauvignon back in the early 1980s by Susan and Henry Hossfeld. This sustainably farmed site is extremely steep and terraced, with very thin topsoil over volcanic bedrock. Soda Canyon, where Hossfeld is perched, sits between the Stag’s Leap and Atlas Peak AVAs, up above Yountville. Ventrello’s precious Tempranillo, on the other hand, hails from the sandstone-rich “Rancho Chimiles” vineyard. This site was specially planted for Parador with vine cuttings that originated from Ribera del Duero and Rioja in the ‘90s. This site, too, sits at 1,000 feet in elevation on a range to the southeast of Soda Canyon. 

At the winery, the varieties fermented separately before blending and subsequently aging for 36 months in two French puncheons, one of which was new. After bottling, today’s small parcel never moved from its original place of rest. After we submit our order, Steve will personally deliver the wines at our warehouse—how’s that for flawless, direct-from-the-source provenance? 

Steve models his wines with the inspiration of Vega Sicilia, so it’s no surprise that today’s is as close as California can get to that legendary label. This 2007 “Reserva” spills into a Bordeaux stem with an opaque dark ruby core with flecks of garnet. The aromas are rich, intense, dark, and intoxicating with cassis, ripe black cherry, roasted plum, dried black raspberry, dusty herbs, clove, coconut husk, sandalwood, and licorice. The palate is sumptuous and finely layered with a wide range of powerfully ripe berry fruits on a hardy backbone of savory earth and baking spice. It should be decanted 15-30 minutes before consuming and tracked for at least three hours! All other bottles will keep aging gracefully until their 20th birthday and beyond.