The Corton-Charlemagne vineyard takes its name from the famed former French emperor, who gifted this and other vineyards to the religious community of Saint-Andoche de Saulieu in the year 775. As legend has it, this all-Chardonnay vineyard was once an all-Pinot Noir vineyard, from which the hard-partying Emperor Charlemagne enjoyed many a bottle—staining his white beard in the process. In an attempt to clean up his beard, if not his act, the Emperor’s wife had the entire vineyard re-planted to Chardonnay and the rest is history. So, we have her to thank for Chardonnays like this: concentrated, graceful, long-lived whites that combine power and complexity.

Remoissenet’s Corton-Charlemagnes are always delicious in their youth—this 2019 is already firing after 60 minutes in a decanter—but the real magic will begin in about five years if you’re patient enough to wait. Right now, the aromas quickly blossom into a perfumed mix of yellow apple blossoms, yellow peach, toasted hazelnuts, salted butter, Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, fresh pastry, acacia flowers, finely crushed stones, and a dizzying array of baking spices. It is broad, ripe, and concentrated on the palate but also laser-focused, revealing only a fraction of its considerable power now. I have very high expectations for this wine with a few more years in bottle; it will be downright explosive come 2025 and promises many years of graceful evolution thereafter. Try one now and squirrel away the rest. There are myriad food options here but a nice, thick piece of Chilean sea bass with some luxurious add ons will make for one unforgettable evening. Enjoy!