If you are a fan of underdog stories, brothers Guy and Jean-Yves Sarrazin will be your new heroes. They’ve been one of ours for a while now, producing impeccable, resolutely classic Burgundies from unsung Côte Chalonnaise appellations such as Rully, Givry, and Maranges. So no, I’m not the least bit surprised that they work wonders with the Aligoté grape. I’d expect nothing less.
Just as they regularly shine light on their home-base appellation of Givry, they demonstrate how serious and expressive the Aligoté variety can be when it is treated with the appropriate respect. Sourcing today’s wine from a south-facing parcel of 30-year-old vines in the tiny hamlet of Charnailles, right above their family home and ancient cellar, they produce a wine from this “also-ran” variety that puts countless Burgundian Chardonnays to shame. I know that when I taste it, it absolutely screams “White Burgundy!” at the top of its lungs—in fact I’d love for more white Burgundies at this price point to offer up this much mineral depth and layered structure. There was a time when Aligoté was spiked with crème de cassis in Kir cocktails and otherwise not thought of much, but Sarrazin’s “Charnailles” underscores just how antiquated that image has become. The days of the Kir are but a speck in the rearview mirror now, so don’t you dare think of desecrating this luminous gem with liqueur. The Sarrazins have given Aligoté a deserved place in the sun, and this high-impact, bargain-priced Burgundy beauty is the reward!
Yes it will be great with oysters and other raw shellfish. And sure, if you want to make a Kir with it, be my guest, but be advised—this 2018 goes way beyond simple refreshment. Having offered many Sarrazin wines in the past, I’m assuming many of you will recognize them and appreciate what I’m saying, but just to reiterate: The Sarrazins are like undrafted athletes who end up having successful pro careers as “walk-ons.” They never miss an opportunity to over-deliver, whether the wine is white or red.
There has been a Sarrazin growing grapes in the Côte Chalonnaise for hundreds of years, dating back as far as the 17th century. Given the tradition, it is no wonder that Guy and Jean-Yves are known for making elegant wines that are considered among the best in the region every vintage. Their farmstead winery falls within the appellation of Givry, with their 35 hectares of estate vineyards spread throughout the Côte Chalonnaise and lower Côte de Beaune. The Aligoté vines are grown next to their home and winery in the tiny hamlet of Charnailles, giving this cuvée its name. The soils here are rich in clay, adding body and depth to the 30+-year-old vines planted there. Everything at the domaine is hand-harvested and brought by a small basket to the winery. There the primary fermentation begins using indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled tanks of stainless steel. The aging takes place in a combination of 80% tank and 20% 500L oak barrels.
The 2018 vintage in Burgundy offered a healthy dose of warmth and generous yields. This set of circumstances has helped plump up the fruit profile of Aligote, adding texture and stuffing to a normally narrow structure. As is typical, the color is almost clear, just a pale straw, with glints of green. On the nose, there are nuanced aromas that operate on a narrow but deep bandwidth featuring Granny Smith apple, tarragon, wild fennel, lemon zest and wet rocks. The palate is lithe and taut with mineral acidity but contains broader texture in the mid-palate, filled with lemon oil, lanolin, ginger, oyster shell, pear skin, and mustard seed. Like many great Aligotés, this one excels because of the interplay between keen-edged fruits and savory, herbal accents. The combination is as compelling as any white wine you will taste. I suggest serving at 50 degrees in all-purpose stems (although use Burgundy stems if they are handy, as they will only broaden the aromatic range). Although it’s been done, I can’t help but think of shellfish as the perfect accompaniment. If you don’t have access to fresh oysters, I’d suggest pan-seared scallops in brown butter. A pitch-perfect “old-school” wine deserves a pairing to match. Cheers!
