On the heels of Domaine Bernard Defaix’s red-hot Premier Cru Chablis sellout comes an even rarer label from just outside of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune. Owned by Hélène Jaeger-Defaix and critics’ darling Didier Defaix, today’s “Mont-Palais” isn’t just an incredible 1er Cru white Burgundy, it’s a legendary value that boldly stands up to your all-time favorite appellations.
Coming from a family that (1) has been married to the Burgundian village of Rully for 500+ years and (2) was largely responsible for its appellation status in the 1930s, Jaeger-Defaix is a genuinely exciting conversation piece. But when you actually taste one of their wines, specifically today’s organic white Burgundy from the rarely spotted “Mont-Palais” Premier Cru, you’ll grant it never-ending bragging rights. Here’s the problem: While this rare bottle is typically impossible to track down on any given year, their already tiny production was sliced in half in 2016. So, for anyone who has an affinity for elite, luxurious white Burgundy—which is just about everyone on SommSelect—this exceedingly limited 2016 is guaranteed to renew your passion. Word to the wise: I wouldn’t bother trying to find this anywhere else unless an overseas trip is in your immediate future.
As the crow flies, the Côte Chalonnaise village of Rully lies less than five miles from Puligny-Montrachet’s hallowed cluster of Grand Cru sites. Home to a lazy countryside, time-defying stone structures, cobbled streets, and, of course, hillside vines buried in classic clay-limestone soils, Rully is a paragon of traditional Burgundy. As such, it’s home to a handful of Premier Crus that challenge their famous northern neighbors and can easily surpass them in the value department. You don’t have to take my word for it: The governing board of French wine officially declared Rully an AOC in 1939, just two years after globally renowned Puligny-Montrachet.
Because of its terroir and rich, centuries-deep history, Rully unquestionably deserved the AOC nod, but it didn’t come easy. The village still had to work for their status, and that’s where today’s domaine comes into play. Although a relatively new estate, owner Hélène Jaeger-Defaix comes from a family that is revered like royalty: Her great-grandfather, Henri Niepce, was an integral champion for Rully in the 1930s. Without Henri, or the historic Niepce lineage (Rully vinegrowers since the 1500s!), this delicious bottle of white Burgundy wouldn’t be in front of you today.
In 2002, Hélène carried on the family torch by taking over her first parcel of family vineyards in Rully—today’s mature vines in Premier Cru “Mont-Palais.” Since that time, she’s gradually expanded, farming organically in the process, yet her entire holdings still amount to just 4.5 hectares. While she and her husband Didier Defaix thrive on this sustainable, small-production approach, the icy wrath of Mother Nature came down on them hard in 2016: They saw over 50% of their crop cut in half, but because they largely avoided hail damage, the tiny amount they did produce was exceptional. Their Premier Cru Chardonnay was harvested manually and gently pressed into French barrels where it underwent a long, all-natural fermentation. The resulting wine then aged in these barrels, on its fine lees, for an extended period. Overall, the wine aged in oak (partially new) for 18 months before a light filtration.
Jaeger-Defaix’s 2016 “Mont-Palais” displays a deep yellow core with vivid silver hues and a touch of green. Didier himself will tell you that this site always produces the most fruit-driven wines, which is perhaps why there is such an intoxicating, hedonistic feel to this wine. It immediately offers up juicy notes of apricot, candied peach, yellow apples, pineapple core, Meyer lemon, and Bosc pear on a pillowy bed of baking spices, but give it 15-30 minutes in a decanter and you’ll also discover intense rocky minerality, a touch of gunflint, dried herbs, honeysuckle, and high-toned citrus blossoms. The palate is incredibly generous, delivering exotic, ripe yellow fruits, herbal spiciness, and an endless push-pull of mineral tension and mouthwatering acidity. Bottom line: If you like textually rich Chardonnay with immense breadth and generosity, this is your liquid paradise. Serve in large Burgundy stems around 50 degrees, enjoy over 2-3 hours, and follow the attached decadent recipe—it’ll deliver a $100+ experience for fractions less. Cheers!
