Just one word—Richebourg—makes the Burgundy collector’s heart skip a beat, but in the trusted hands of Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur, this hallowed micro-production site becomes a Grand Cru value for the ages because with each passing month it’s rareness, price, and awe factor soars. Those seeking to acquire even one bottle of Richebourg must first brace themselves for the sticker shock. Pricing for Richebourg is no joke: $5,000 (Domaine Leroy); $3,300 (DRC); $1,700 (Méo-Camuzet); $1,500 (Jean Grivot). And that’s if you can even find a bottle from a trusted source, which I can promise is a considerable challenge.
Our finger-on-the-pulse subscribers probably recognize Gros Frère et Souers’ 2013: Yes, we offered it last year and, yes, it sold out. This batch is only half of our previous allocation and those who miss out must brace themselves for the inevitable price increase should we have the privilege of offering this again—that’s the power of Richebourg. It’s a life-changing, soul-stirring rarity that originates from one of my personal favorite addresses in Burgundy, a cellar I visit every chance I get. And the best part of this story? We can, again, offer this one-way ticket to red Burgundy Shangri-La for less than $500. It’s certainly not an “affordable” wine, but it is undoubtedly one of the greatest values and cellar investments we offer. Due to extremely limited quantities, we must restrict purchases to two bottles per customer.
Warning: A complicated family tree lies ahead, so proceed at your own risk. The Gros family arrived in Vosne-Romanée in the 1830s and subsequently began a winemaking dynasty in Burgundy. Gros Frère et Soeur was formed in 1963 when brother and sister (frère et soeur) Gustave and Colette combined their land inheritance after their father’s estate holdings from Domaine Gros-Renaudot were split among his sons and daughters (thanks to Napoleon I decreeing that estates must be equally split between the owner’s children). A further subdivision occurred when Gustave and Colette’s brother, Jean Gros, divvied up his holdings between his own offspring, Michel Gros, Anne-Françoise Gros (not to be confused with famed Anne Gros, who is their cousin), and Bernard Gros. Instead of forming his own domaine, Bernard Gros took over for Uncle Gustave at Gros Frère et Soeur when he passed away in 1984. Bernard now represents the sixth generation of Gros winemakers and today, his son Vincent joins his side. Can you recite all that?
Richebourg is divided into two lieux-dits, “Le Richebourg” and “Les Véroilles-ou-Richebourg,” with Bernard and Vincent’s 1.7-acre parcel lying in the latter of the two. Soils are the classic limestone-clay blend and Gros Frère et Soeur farms according to lutte raisonnée principles; they drastically restrict yields and pruning is done to an almost neurotic extent in order to achieve the greatest levels of ripeness and concentration. In the winery, destemmed grapes ferment in stainless steel vats and age in entirely new French oak for about 16 months. The wine is lightly fined and always bottled unfiltered. The 2013 vintage was challenging for many, forcing most producers to cut yields sharply in order to deliver sufficient concentration. Many sources characterize 2013 as a “fresh” and “young-drinking” vintage, but as I’ve mentioned before with Gros Frère, they had something else in mind. This will take many years, decades even, in perfect stride.
Gros Frère et Soeur’s 2013 Richebourg is a bottle that requires a clear head and a good environment; one of those “study and reflect” wines that delivers unfathomable nuances within a powerfully structured Pinot Noir. The 2013 is a perfect example of this, and, should you be curious enough to open a bottle in the near future, decant for at least two hours before pouring into your largest Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees. When all that’s complete, aromas of rose petal and baking spice will trickle out with slow-building, dark-toned fruits like ripe black cherry, black raspberry, pomegranate, and muddled blackberries, while also revealing classic Burgundian notes of forest floor and black tea with subtle hints of smoke and leather. The wine is simultaneously elegant and powerful, with hefty concentration on the palate alongside muscular tannins and woodsy components. The more years you wait, the softer it will become, but remember, there is no ‘wrong’ time to drink this bottle: With a long decant right now, it’s powerful and robust, with additional years (or decades) in the cellar, it will show more finesse and delicacies. Either way, it’s a rare Grand Cru treat that will impress just about anyone who steps in the room. Cheers!
