If you value authenticity as much as you do deliciousness, I’m excited to share today’s wine with you—because, frankly, there are times when I think people sacrifice the latter for the former. Fattoria La Vialla is an ambitious, picturesque, Demeter-certified biodynamic farm near Arezzo in Tuscany, founded decades ago by an ex-textile entrepreneur who wanted to get back to the land, and today’s sumptuous red is both a triumph of natural farming and a sleek, sexy “super-Tuscan” of considerable depth and polish.
It’s not the kind of “polish” you might be expecting, even though it’s called “Barricato”—meaning “aged in barrique”—and contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wood is not the story here, nor is the wine as pumped up with extract as many of its contemporaries; instead, it’s a wine that makes good on the well-worn trope that “great wine is made in the vineyard.” The Lo Franco family’s meticulous organic/biodynamic farming gives this wine its exceptional purity and lit-from-within energy. Unlike most super-Tuscans, it’s built more like a full-bodied red Burgundy than a Bordeaux, and its 90% Sangiovese component is dripping with clean, ripe, black-cherry goodness. I’m tempted to compare it to Carmignano (given the Cabernet component), but it’s also reminiscent of classic Brunello and even a few Bolgheri reds besides. But if that doesn’t mean anything to you, let me instead say that it is joyously and authentically Tuscan, through and through—easily one of the best reds we’ve had from this region all year. Get in line behind me and grab as much as you can, because this 2015 is legit!
One look at the bubbly Italian script on the label and this Italophile was transfixed, but that was nothing compared to my reaction upon tasting Barricato: Although Sangiovese is the driving force in the wine, it is perfectly accented (rather than stepped on) by the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has loads of depth but it isn’t heavy, but rather pulsing with bright acidity. And once I learned more about the farm and the people behind it—sold! I don’t just want to drink this wine, I want to go to La Vialla and drink it (so, um, if the wine’s importer is listening, I’m available).
When he and his wife, Giuliana, purchased a run-down farmhouse near Arezzo, Piero Lo Franco was in the textile business and thought the property would make a nice country retreat for his family. But, over time, he became more and more drawn to agriculture, enlisting his three sons—Antonio, Gianni, and Bandino—in the effort. The property has since grown to a whopping 3,500 acres, with 450 acres of Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards along with orange and olive groves, huge vegetable gardens, woodland, and pasture for assorted grazing animals. It is effectively a self-sustaining farm, employing 150 people and selling not just wine and olive oil but vegetables, jellies, vinegars, pastas, and many other products. In a characteristically excellent
profile of La Vialla for
Decanter magazine, writer Andrew Jefford mused that La Vialla may be “the most innovative and original” wine estate he’s ever visited.
Count all of us at SommSelect among the converts—this wine caused quite the stir around the office when we tasted it, and while it may be called “Barricato,” the wine is aged in a combination of
barriques and larger casks called
botti. In the glass, it has a deep ruby-garnet core with hints of violet (the Cabernet lending some color depth), with enticing aromas of black cherry, plum, woodland berries, cassis, violet, underbrush, grilled herbs, and a hint of grill char. Medium-plus in body and buoyantly fruity, it is ripe but not overblown like a lot of 2015s—the proportions are spot-on, the tannins fine-grained, the finish long and floral. It is drinking beautifully now but should continue to impress over the next 10+ years if kept well, so do yourself a favor and take multiple bottles. Give it a half-hour in a decanter and serve it at a cool 60 degrees in Bordeaux stems with an old-school chicken
alla cacciatore (hunter-style). Before you know it you’ll be booking a flight to Tuscany. Enjoy!
