One way to think about today’s wine is as a ‘gateway’ to Burgundy’s luxury tier—and if you drink Premier and Grand Cru Burgundy at all, you know what an expensive tier that can be. Domaine Denis Mortet has grown into one of the most prestigious properties in Gevrey-Chambertin, and if you aspire to drink the best, it’s an estate you need to know.
Today’s “Mes Cinq Terroirs” bottling is a way to experience the sumptuous refinement of Mortet before graduating to that next, more prohibitive, price tier. Wines like this are sommelier favorites for this very reason, but even at this price point, they’re not easy to come by: This is elite-level red Burgundy we’re talking about, so quantities are minuscule and worldwide demand increases with each new vintage. I’m thrilled to have access to a small amount of Mortet’s 2017 to share with you today, much as I might like to sock it all away for myself. There are countless Premier and even Grand Cru bottlings that can’t keep up with this one, so if you’re ready to take your Burgundy game to the next level, take up to 4 bottles today and count yourself among the very lucky few!
Today’s exquisite 2017 is already drinking beautifully—a Mortet signature—but there are at least 10 years of positive evolution ahead of it, if not more. Sourced from vines averaging 70 years of age, this is a far cry from your typical “village-level” Gevrey, and it shows through clearly from the first sip. In the glass, it displays a vibrant, dark ruby red core with highly reflective, slightly pink hues on the rim that indicate its youth. The perfumed nose offers classic aromas of youthful Gevrey-Chambertin including notes of black cherry, wild strawberry, redcurrant and fresh red plum highlighted by aromas of freshly picked lavender, thyme, forest floor, black tea, a bouquet of wildflowers, crushed rocks and subtle baking spices from the lightly toasted French oak. The slightly rustic and very structured palate—which is to be expected from a youthful Gevrey—enchants with compact and muscular flavors of crushed stone minerality, wild herbs, wet flowers, tea leaf, grape stems, redcurrant and pomegranate. If you collect Burgundy, this stunning wine is a necessary addition to your cellar. If you opt to enjoy a bottle now, decant for two hours and serve in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees for optimal results. Serve it with roasted lamb loin chops and prepare to be blown away. Enjoy!