Savennières is one of those ‘Holy Grail’ wines that attracts sommeliers like moths to a flame. First of all, it’s quite rare to see unless in a fine wine shop. Found in the Anjou region of the Loire, the entire AOC is 285 hectares (roughly 150 under vine), entirely dedicated to that darling of the industry, Chenin Blanc. Secondly, very few producers have mastered the art of these deeply mineral and thought-provoking wines.
Nicolas Joly is responsible for the majority of Savennières’ publicity, with sole ownership of the famous “Coulée de Serrant vineyard”—a steep slope of Chenin Blanc designated as one of the best terroirs for that grape in the world. But Joly’s wild, textured, biodynamic concoctions are the tip of the iceberg. The entire AOC glows like a yellow diamond set in the green sparkle of the Loire. These are inimitable, age-worthy wines as demanding as they are delicious. Today’s producer, Domaine Laffourcade, is consistent where Joly can be capricious. Laffourcade’s traditionally styled Savennières is a pitch-perfect, bone-dry introduction to an AOC that simply isn’t for everyone—which is good news, because there isn’t enough for everyone. And what’s left is for the long-time lovers, the day-one Chenin die-hards, those who pledge allegiance to texture, acidity, and minerality. And that brings us to the third reason sommeliers adore Savennières: complexity-for-dollar is through the roof! If you’re not already on the Loire Valley Chenin train, this is the wine to welcome you aboard!
Vignobles Laffourcade was first known for their work in an entirely different AOC: Quarts de Chaume. Laffourcade owns 19 of the 43 hectares that make up the minuscule appellation devoted entirely to Chenin’s sweetest, most nectar-like expressions. Founder André began making wines in 1958, and it wasn’t until 1970 that his son, Pascal, decided to expand to the other most sought-after Chenin crus of the Anjou region: Bonnezeaux and Savennières. Land in Savennières didn’t materialize until 1988, but Laffourcade was patient. Pascal was one of the first new producers to enter the region in 20 years, and deserves partial credit for championing the revival of these ancient vineyards. Vignobles Laffourcade now headquartered in Savennières. It’s the crown jewel of the family’s triumvirate, nestled on the right bank of the Loire a stone’s throw from the gates of the town of Angers. With almost 100 hectares under vine, they have one of the largest holdings in the AOC, and are one of the few producers who actually make their wine within the appellation.
Strangely enough, much of Savennières prime real estate sits empty, overgrown by dense vegetation eating holes through ancient Roman walls. It’s a wild but bucolic landscape. Steep slopes run down to the Loire River, which in turn reflects glittering sunlight onto the hillsides. Soils are a unique mix of brown schist and Aeolian sand—deep, loaded with minerals, and surprisingly fine. Laffourcade’s vines are an average of 20 years old, worked by hand, and interspersed with a healthy serving of cover crops. In a region known for botrytized, oxidized styles, Laffourcade’s Savennières relies on meticulously grown fruit and careful élèvage in barrel. And while it’s not unusual to find alcohol levels close to (or surpassing!) 15 percent ABV, this vignoble keeps things tempered, balanced, and restrained. The intent is to recreate the dense, cerebral wines that elevated Savennières to cult status, without the disquieting heat of global warming curling your nose hairs.
The double-guyot trained vines are hand-harvested in a wave as fruit ripens, twice-sorted before a six- to eight-day maceration. Both fermentation and élèvage take place in French oak barrels, but only 30 percent of those are new. The 2016 did not go through malolactic fermentation, which can mean some seriously steely notes in its youth. Thankfully, the 2016 vintage enjoyed noteworthy success and excellent temperatures despite some initial crop-loss to frost. The depth of a good vintage and a few years of age have buffed this wine to an otherworldly glow. Everything is in balance, here.
Be careful not to serve this wine too cold. I recommend 55-60 degrees in Burgundy stems. It’s one of those rare whites that will do well with decanting 15-20 minutes before serving. It’s bright gold in the glass; a rich, dry, opulent Chenin with a dizzying bouquet of aromas. Three years in bottle have slowly coalesced aromas into a haunting cocktail of dried chamomile, beeswax, almond, and crushed stones. The palate is all quince, preserved lemon, and exotic spices with an electric current of tension. It’s both viscous and wonderfully fresh while round and mineral. Altogether the wine is savory, earthy, and complex. This is just the beginning of a 10-year drinking window during which flavors and acidity will continue to soften. These wines are built for hearty, creamy foods, and with the weather turning, Edna Lewis’ famous “Chicken and Pastry” soup came to mind. The thick broth and dumpling-like pastry will go beautifully with this rich yet racy Chenin. Enjoy!
