Anyone who drinks Pinot Noir regularly knows that a $22 Pinot Noir of exceptional quality is a rarity. Because of its delicacy, Pinot Noir is an expensive grape to grow, so at this price point you’re usually dealing with some pretty anonymous, bulk-level stuff. But not today.
Today, we have a Pinot Noir revelation for you from the foothills of the French Alps, which is only priced the way it is because there’s not a big market for Savoie Pinot Noir—not yet, anyway. This storybook Alpine region has become justly famous for its mineral whites from Jacquère and Altesse, not to mention its tense, dark-fruited, spicy reds from Mondeuse, but as we all know, cooler, more “marginal” climates are Pinot Noir’s preferred growing zones. With a warming climate making remote wine regions like a Savoie a little less marginal, today’s 2016 is showing a level of depth and complexity that likely would have eluded it a decade ago. Cousins Alexandra and Jérome Labbé showed great foresight in adding Pinot Noir to their family’s traditional mix of grape varieties, and it paid off in this red of lively energy, mineral depth, and ethereal perfume. Wines with this much of a terroir imprint at this price are few and far between, believe me. It was a no-brainer acquisition for us, and should be for you, too!
Domaine Labbé is located just south of Chambéry, France’s only appellation for vermouth. Their village, Les Marches, means “the steps,” as they are “steps” away from Mount Granier, a magnificent limestone peak and part of the Chartreuse mountains. It’s a unique place for Pinot Noir. Alexandra and Jérome Labbé have been making wines here since 2004 when they inherited nine hectares of vines from their parents, who were farmers of “subsistence,” tending to a little bit of everything: cows, milk, hay, wheat, and table grapes. Growing wine grapes started as a hobby, inspired by economic reasons. They began planting varieties allowed within the appellation laws and sold the majority of their fruit. When Alexandra and Jérome took over, they had mostly Jacquère, a patch of Mondeuse, but no Pinot Noir. From afar, their soils are rough and rocky, but up close, clay and limestone are fruitful, almost bottomless. Putting their faith in the history of Burgundy and the future of global warming, Alexandra and Jérome chose wisely: They planted Pinot Noir and began farming sustainably.
We tend to preach the gospel of “old vines” because they add depth of flavor, but when it comes to drinking a youthful Pinot, full of energy and fruit-forward tang, there’s no hardcore proof to steer you away from today’s “young vine” offering. Just over 10 years old, these Pinot vines have plenty of personality—soft red fruits with a cool touch of mountain green and floral spice. The hand-picked fruit is sorted in the winery, where it undergoes fermentation (no stems) in used barrels with natural yeasts, followed by aging for nine months, again, in used barrels. Between 12% and 12.5% alcohol, this Pinot sits exactly at the nexus of pretty and ripe, so I would recommend serving it around cellar temperature, 55-60 degrees.
In the glass, a pale ruby core fades into a light pink rim, appearing day-bright. The nose is welcoming, with cherry, cranberry, and wild strawberries, damp earth, crunchy fall leaves, wild mushroom, and tea. On the palate, the wine is effortless and breezy, with hints of mountain flora spice. The non-fruit flavors are unfamiliar yet enticing, and it’s the wine’s silky texture that reminds us we are drinking very good Pinot Noir. When pairing food and wine, it’s a sommelier’s dream to have an arsenal of Pinot Noir that packs in all the flavors of a red but glides like a white. This is the ideal wine for “white wine dishes,” when all you want is red wine! A typical dish of the region is a
tartiflette, a potato casserole of sorts, but way better when you use the classic Reblochon cheese. This recipe, courtesy of the late Anthony Bourdain, begs for a high-acid white, or perhaps, a savory Alpine red when your mood is simply Pinot. Cheers!
