Five years of constant pressing has finally resulted in a day we thought would never arrive: An allocation of Fourrier’s “Clos St. Jacques” that surpassed single digits. Now, as baffling as that may sound to you, this is a huge victory. We previously tasted this 2017 in Fourrier’s cellar and were left speechless by the power and lavish fruit straight out of barrel—really, this legendary vineyard unlocks a new dimension of weight, pedigree, and muscle in Pinot Noir.
There’s a reason this rarefied site is entirely owned by just five producers, including Bruno Clair, Armand Rousseau, and Sylvie Esmonin—three of Burgundy’s most respected names. Then you have Fourrier, a resurgent domaine that has screamed onto the scene and become a tried-and-true showpiece in every high-end cellar. Put simply, there is not a serious collector on the planet who doesn’t know, want, or already own a vintage of Fourrier’s extraordinary, highly exalted “Clos St. Jacques.” Eight months have passed since we first tasted today’s ‘17, and in that time it has been bottled and quietly doled out in micro-quantities to major cities around the world. Although our stock indicates that we should cap purchases at a single bottle, we’re allowing two per customer because one must be saved for the 10- or 20-year-old mark. This is one of wine’s most cherished treasures so for those who do secure a bottle, congratulations—and please invite me over!
Since taking over the domaine in 1994, Jean-Marie Fourrier has turned it into one of Burgundy’s most sought-after labels, to the point where most US restaurants and retailers receive allocations in eyedropper quantities. Count me among those who will happily take whatever Fourrier I can get: These are Burgundies that meld concentration and finesse, lushness and lift, in a way that is downright magical. Other than a skilled touch in the cellar, this can be contributed to impeccable raw material: Fourrier’s collection of mature vines. The extent to which old vines are central to Fourrier’s style is reinforced by the fact that Jean-Marie sells all of his young-vine fruit to négociants. His importer quotes him thusly: “Until a vineyard develops a root system,” he says, “it doesn’t develop flavor.”
Overall, Fourrier farms nine hectares of vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vougeot. His decisions both in the field and the cellar are informed at least in part by his apprenticeship with the “godfather” of modern Burgundy, Henri Jayer, back before he took over the family property. He manages yields through careful winter pruning (rather than ‘green harvesting’ mid-summer), fully de-stems all grapes (after a rigorous sorting) before fermentation, and uses the minimum possible added sulfur. His 2017 “Clos St. Jacques” was picked at extremely low yields and the grapes fermented naturally in stainless steel after a few days of cold soaking. It then aged on its lees for 20 months without ever being subjected to more than 20% new oak. Bottling occurred without fining, filtrating, and any addition of sulfur—just pure, powerful juice that transcends its administrative Premier Cru status. There’s a reason this is globally considered a Grand Cru in everything but name!
In the glass, a sleek wine full of muscle and polish is revealed, but in all of its power lies natural beauty. Ripe fruits of wild strawberry, black cherry skin, spiced plums, and brambleberries are interlaced with damp rose petals, violets, licorice, underbrush, spices, crushed stones, and a wisp of smoke. Typical of the Fourrier style, the palate offers intense richness of fruit that is simultaneously balanced by bracing acidity and supple, fine-grained tannins. The incredible complexity and depth of “Clos St. Jacques” simply cannot be described in its entirety; it must be fully experienced for yourself. Fourrier’s wines begin to hit a beautiful spot just 4-5 years after the vintage, but they can absolutely thrive for decades—that’s especially the case for “Clos St. Jacques.” If drinking within the next several years, please decant for at least three hours to (1) let the possible touch of CO2 to blow off, since no sulfur is added; and (2) allow this young beast to limber up. Again, this 2017 is delicious to drink young but will be twice and thrice as pleasurable at five and 15 years of age. Whenever you do enjoy, savor each sip because you’re among the very few who can. Cheers!
