One of the fascinating, lesser-known aspects of Domaine François Gaunoux is their deep library of back vintages, but getting your hands on them can prove difficult, as they only go to those who are most deserving.
However, securing a batch of today’s 1998 Premier Cru “Clos des Mouches,” took even more doing. I assure you this “hard-to-get” narrative isn’t a gimmick: Whether being called “A Burgundy Secret” by Forbes or touted as “one of the finest domaines in all of Burgundy” by luminary Allen Meadows, the praise for the staunchly traditional wines of François Gaunoux is as high as it is endless. And what of the vineyard in question today, Clos des Mouches? Benchmark producer Albert Bichot said it best, calling this renowned site “a gem” and placing it “in the same league as a Grand Cru.” What this bottle delivers is the singular magic of long-aged, perfectly stored Burgundy at its most classic. Our tiny parcel recently arrived from the cold cellars at Gaunoux, so take what you can—we must cap it at six bottles per person—and enjoy this vigorous, 21-year-old treasure now and over the next decade.
There’s a feeling I get when I encounter a well-aged, serious red Burgundy in great condition. It’s like a favorite song you haven’t heard in a while coming on the radio. Or reconnecting with a dear old friend from college. Or any other moment of pure joy you might conjure. Mature red Burgundy is as silky-smooth and aromatically complex as red wine gets, awakening not just your senses but your emotions and your intellect as well. And frankly, a lot of this reverie relies on the realities of storage conditions: Had this been plucked from a store shelf, where it may have sat in the heat and light for who knows how long, I doubt its impact would have been the same. But since Gaunoux’s importer special-ordered it for us and had it shipped straight from their cellars in Meursault, there were no worries on that front. Even though this wine has entered its second decade, it is still in robust health—a testament to namesake François Gaunoux and his daughter, Claudine, who quietly craft traditionally styled wines from about 10 hectares in the Côte de Beaune.
Although 87-year-old François Gaunoux, who started his career in his family’s vineyards at the age of 15, is still at it, Claudine is running the show, having ‘officially’ taken over operations back in 2000. They are ultra-traditional in the vineyards and cellar, farming and crafting everything by hand. And what is perhaps most fascinating of all is that Claudine Gaunoux has opted to raise her red wines only in tank, usually for 2-3 years before bottling, and they don’t miss the oak one bit. However, today’s ‘98, from the most notable Premier Cru in the Beaune appellation, was made by her father: It was entirely de-stemmed and did in fact see French oak (mostly neutral) for about 15 months.
A sample of François Gaunoux’s 1998 “Clos des Mouches” was sent to us prior to today’s parcel leaving their cellar and then we tasted another upon arrival last month. We couldn't have been more thrilled with both results—these wines are in peak form, a perfect representation of mature, classy, and refined blue-chip Burgundy (though today’s ‘98 still has plenty of gas left in its tank). In the glass, the wine reveals finessed aromas of black cherries, preserved plum, damp forest floor, rose petals, herbs, mushroom, vintage leather, and a light touch of exotic spice. Substantial palate weight and structured tannins create impressive lasting power on the wine’s savory, dried fruit, mineral-tinged finish. This is a stellar showing of mature Burgundy from a first-rate estate, so be sure to treat it properly during service: Stand the bottle upright several weeks prior to pulling the cork, pour slowly into large Burgundy stems, and savor over several hours around 60-65 degrees. It’s definitely an intelligent red that can be enjoyed on its own, but don’t hesitate to place it next to a traditional boeuf bourguignon or the attached roasted venison recipe. Enjoy!
