Having lived in Burgundy since the 1800s, generations of the Féry family have built up 14 hectares that are now spread throughout 22 unique appellations; such is the fragmented dynamic of terroir-driven Burgundy. It’s always been vineyard first, producer second here while focusing on the rich history and nobility that courses through this place. That’s exactly why the Féry brothers, Frédéric and Laurent, looked to Bouzeron in 2017: Grapes have been planted here since the 12th century and Aligoté is its beating heart. Having mastered the art of white winemaking in the Côte de Beaune, they decided to take on the vastly unappreciated terroir of Bouzeron and misrepresented Aligoté grape. The result is a home run.

Bouzeron lies at the very northern section of Côte Chalonnaise, making it a very close neighbor to Côte de Beaune’s renowned vineyards, the greatest area for Chardonnay in the world. Obviously, the grape growers of Bouzeron know the fame and reputation of their star-studded neighbors. They could’ve easily ripped up the Aligoté and filled their wallets from the sale of Chardonnay, but they’ve always remained loyal to the former. They passionately believe their terroir is best suited for this grape, and that’s why they were awarded appellation status in the ‘90s. This is the epicenter for premium Aligoté, and in the hands of the current generation of the Férys, it shines at its brightest. 

Today’s 2017 comes from the “Les Corcelles” parcel, which the Féry brothers farm organically. In the winery, grapes were instantly pressed to avoid any trace of oxidation, and after a temperature-controlled fermentation (including malolactic), it aged 12 months in a combination of stainless steel and French barrels. The wine is elite white Burgundy, regardless of grape variety, and I dare anyone to confidently say it couldn’t be a village-level or Premier Cru from a top producer in the Côte de Beaune. When Aligoté has a great growing season and is properly finessed in the winery, it can mirror Burgundy’s crème de la crème. A brilliant yellow hue in the glass explodes with a multitude of rich aromas: grilled pineapple, peach, yellow apple skin, flint, lemon curd, salted citrus peel, lime blossoms, damp honeysuckle, finely crushed stones, and warm baking spices. It’s immensely textured on the palate, with broad, rich layers that feed off the non-stop rush of acidity. Serve in large Burgundy stems after a 30-minute decant, and see just how much mileage you can get out of one bottle because ours was singing bright notes well into the following day. This ’17 “Les Corcelles” makes me fall in love with Burgundy all over again. Enjoy it over the next decade. Cheers!