There may be no better case for blind tasting than today’s wine: If you were to look at the label first, your mind might take you someplace this wine does not go. Given what we know about Châteauneuf-du-Pape and 2015, you’d be inclined to expect a downright massive red, and in most instances, you’d be right—but not in this one. Font du Vent’s 2015 “Cuvée Etienne Gonnet” is a model of silken, perfumed elegance in a region where only an elite few manage to capture the “Pinot-ish” side of the region’s signature grape, Grenache.
Underpinned here with percentages of Syrah and Mourvèdre, this wine is simply one of the best Châteauneufs any of us has encountered in some time. Sharing kindred qualities to the benchmark reds of Château Rayas—finesse, first and foremost—this is a conversation-piece bottle of wine that reminds us why Châteauneuf-du-Pape is one of the most historic and important terroirs in the world. The driving force in “Cuvée Etienne Gonnet” is Grenache from vines exceeding 100 years in age, and one can’t help but think that those heritage vines perfectly self-regulate the quality and quantity of grapes they produce—resulting in a wine of great profundity but also incredible lift and length. It’s seductively accessible now, will continue to drink well for a decade-plus to come, and is scandalously underpriced (especially given the critical hype it received). Bottled only in top vintages, this cuvée is an homage to Font du Vent’s late founder, Etienne Gonnet, and what an impressive tribute it is: We can offer up to six bottles per person until our small allocation runs out!
Etienne Gonnet originally founded this estate in 1950 as Domaine Font de Michelle; he was first and foremost a grape-grower who sold his produce to négociants, but had dreamed of bottling wines under his own label before his untimely death in the mid-1970s. His sons, Jean and Michel Gonnet, created a family label and drove its success over some 30 years, before handing the reins to their own sons, Bertrand and Guillaume, in 2006. The newest generation has meticulously maintained the family’s prized old vines and “re-branded” the estate as Domaine Font du Vent, introducing subtle tweaks to the house style along the way. Both Bertrand and Guillaume Gonnet not only studied viticulture and enology but traveled the world for apprenticeships and research, which led them to vinify their different vineyard lots separately; bring in newer types of cooperage for aging; and, perhaps most important of all, apply for organic certification of their vineyards. Font du Vent is now certified organic by Ecocert and incorporates biodynamic practices as well.
Fermented over 30 days in traditional wooden vats with a small percentage of whole grape clusters included, the finished wines aged in an assortment of vessels: The Grenache (65% of this blend) aged in a mix of concrete and wooden tanks, while the Syrah (20%) and Mourvèdre (15%) rested in used, 600-liter French oak
demi-muids. The result is a seamless, silky, voluptuous red that exhibits all the best qualities of great Châteauneuf-du-Pape—the supple tannins, the wild Mediterranean herbs and brush, the plush, sunny fruit. In the glass, it displays a medium ruby red core moving to magenta and pink at the rim, its aromas shifting from red to black fruits and back again: sweet red cherries, blackberries, currants, raspberries, violets, licorice, bay leaves, cacao, and baking spices all carry over to a seamless, medium-plus-bodied palate. Given all the inky, hyper-concentrated ’15s we’ve tried from all over Europe, this one was a total revelation. The mixture of power and finesse is truly memorable and the wine’s superb balance will serve it well over the next 10-15 years. Decant it about 30 minutes before serving in large Burgundy stems (yes, Châteauneuf can be ‘Burgundian’) at 60 degrees. It is not too intense for summer drinking and would pair beautifully with summery, tomato-y dishes like ratatouille, eggplant parmigiana, or the attached Provençal lamb preparation. Just keep it cool and you’ll be blown away. Cheers!
