The “Langhe Nebbiolo” designation is to Barolo/Barbaresco what “Bourgogne Rouge” is to red Burgundy—a ‘catchall’ appellation with less specific prescriptions, which leads some to (wrongly) conclude that wines so labeled are “generic.” Oh no.
Today’s Nebbiolo from Alessandria is the furthest thing from generic, but as is so often the case, the label doesn’t really tell you that. But I will: Alessandria’s “Prinsiòt” is sourced from estate vineyards in the Barolo village of Verduno, and includes a lot of choice fruit that might otherwise be used in Alessandria’s Barolo wines. The main difference between this wine and a Barolo is that this one spent 10 months aging in wood barrels, whereas Barolo, by law, spends a minimum of 18 (part of a required 38 months of total aging before the wine can be released). And I’ll tell you what: The 2016 “Prinsiòt” lacks for nothing. It’s everything one could ask for in a Nebbiolo from Barolo, and it’s drinkable now to boot! There’s a level of aromatic complexity and elegance here that a great many Barolos, quite frankly, would love to have—so whatever you do, don’t dismiss this wine as generic. This is pedigreed Nebbiolo at a plebeian price.
I’m going to say something else about this wine that some might regard as sacrilegious: I don’t really need more than this. Meaning, I like that this is a slightly less intense, less tannic, less wood-influenced take on Nebbiolo from Barolo. Much as I often find myself preferring lighter Rosso di Montalcinos to their bigger Brunello brethren, Langhe Nebbiolo is often a clearer, more straightforward expression of varietal character. Barolo has always been a “big,” powerful wine and it’s only getting bigger as the climate gets warmer; the finesse and approachability of a wine like Prinsiòt, meanwhile, is very appealing.
Not incidentally, finesse is a quality we value in the Alessandria Barolos, too, which we’ve offered repeatedly here on SommSelect. Located in the commune of Verduno, neighboring La Morra at the northern end of the Barolo DOCG zone, the Alessandria family has farmed vineyards and made wine here since 1870. These days it’s Gian Battista Alessandria running the show, with help from his wife, Flavia, brother, Alessandro, and son, Vittore. Their vineyard holdings have grown to about 12 hectares, mostly in Verduno but also Monforte d’Alba, and while they’re not yet certified, farming is carried out according to organic prescriptions.
As with a lot of Langhe Nebbiolo bottlings, this one includes some younger-vine fruit in the mix and is sourced from three different estate vineyards in Verduno (the name “Prinsiòt,” by the way, means “little princes” in local dialect, a nickname given to the Alessandrias by their Verduno neighbors). It aged 10 months in large casks (20-40 hectoliter) of Slavonian and French oak, followed by a few months in tank and three months in bottle. For a “young” Nebbiolo it is beautifully integrated already, with smooth, fine-grained tannins and a great balance of fruit and earth tones. In the glass, it’s a medium garnet red with hints of pink and orange, with an expressive nose of red plums, cherries, black and red raspberries, roses and violets, tobacco, orange peel, warm spice, and underbrush. It is medium-bodied, full of freshness, and quite sleek on the palate—full of energy but without any sharp edges. For all its woodsy savor it is plenty refined, blossoming nicely and delivering a complex, complete Nebbiolo experience with time in the glass. Decant it 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees, pairing it with roast pork or maybe a seared duck breast with a cherry sauce. Yes, the more I think of it, do the duck; I guarantee you won’t be disappointed. Cheers!
