Third generation Guillaume Tardy combines the best of both worlds in today’s superb red Burgundy from “Au Bas de Combe,” a prime vineyard that essentially straddles Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Downslope from “Les Damodes,” cater-corner to “aux Malconsorts,” and a few minutes’ jog from Vosne’s famed “La Tâche”—“Au Bas de Combe” is a hotspot for vine royalty.
From this vineyard, Guillaume hand-farms barely one acre of old Pinot Noir vines that were planted way back in 1937, and the resulting wines are indescribably good, always showcasing Vosne-Romanée elegance and N-S-G power. But, in the extraordinary high-quality, low-quantity 2010 vintage, these breathtaking notes were magnified tenfold. As such, Jean Tardy has become an ever-essential Burgundy label that has gained a prominent foothold in the luxury restaurant and fine retail scene. Take the Michelin star-studded cast of Alain Ducasse’s Parisian restaurants, like Plaza Athénée and Le Meurice. These are once-in-a-lifetime treats that provide an impeccable experience from the moment you walk in the door. Many will say, the French especially, that the wine is as important as the food—which is why you’ll find Jean Tardy’s limited labels populating blue-chip lists. Somehow, someway, a tiny portion of this superb 2010 found its way stateside, and we didn’t hesitate when it was made available to us. Neither should you!
The Tardy wine legacy started with Guillaume’s grandfather, Victor. During the advent of the 1920s, Victor found a job as a vineyard worker for iconic Domaine Méo-Camuzet, where he proceeded to work up a sweat for 25 years. For his hard work and dedication, Etienne Camuzet offered Victor some of his vineyard sites for sharecropping. His son, Jean, assumed control in 1966 and because of such a close, time-honored relationship, Domaine Méo-Camuzet shared another batch of elite vines—most notably, those in Grand Cru Clos Vougeot. Jean’s son—current-day proprietor Guillaume—has been at the helm since 2001.
The village-level status of “Au Bas de Combe” is a head-scratcher, to be sure. Surrounded by heavy-hitting Premier Crus and lying just 1,000 feet south of the singular Grand Cru La Tâche, this insider site is proudly farmed by some of the greatest labels in Côte de Nuits. Because of its under-the-radar prominence, it’s not easy to acquire land here—Guillaume Tardy owns less than a half hectare. As a result, he farms his 80-year-old vines with the utmost care, working them by hand, applying natural composts, and eschewing all chemicals. In the winery, grapes are de-stemmed and subjected to a three-week long cold maceration/fermentation before transferring the wine into new and used French oak for 16 months.
Tardy’s 2010 “Au Bas de Combe” reveals a deep ruby color in the glass with light garnet hues circling the rim. With a touch of air, gorgeous aromatics of high-toned currants, black cherry blossoms, preserved raspberry, and plum skin confidently stride down the red carpet with supple notes of black tea, forest flora, button mushroom, and rose petal following lockstep. The medium-plus bodied palate boasts fine-grained tannins and savory black-red fruit alongside an intense, nearly rustic, mineral energy. If blinding this wine, I would be torn between Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges—and I couldn’t imagine a better conflict to be faced with! Tardy’s “Au Bas de Combe” possesses such a powerful combination of perfume, laser-etched minerality, and intoxicating dark fruit; just treat it to a 30-60 minute decant and you’ll agree. Consume in large Burgundy stems around 60 degrees and it will dazzle you for hours and hours after opening—which is why I recommend pulling the cork on two from the get-go! If you plan on enjoying while the weather is cold, prepare the attached venison bourguignon and sink into your chair with a glass of Tardy. And let’s not forget: there’s a great deal of life left in this stunner, so don’t open all your bottles too soon!