Vincent Laval organically farms just two prized hectares in Premier Cru Cumières with a few helping hands and a horse by his side. So, when one of Laval’s three insanely rare single-vineyard bottlings emerges from his cellar, the world takes pause for a moment, but today’s special 2012 “Les Hautes Chèvres” caused the world to jolt to a stop: Using a microscopic parcel of Meunier vines planted in 1930 and 1947, he managed to bottle one of the most expressive single-varietal champagnes on the market.
Everything about the Vincent Laval of Champagne Georges Laval screams authenticity, intimacy, and artisanship—and even a fleeting spin around the internet confirms that the market has heavily rewarded them for it. Laval’s champagnes are some of the most sought-after wines (of any type) among the wine cognoscenti, and this rarefied bottling of “Les Hautes Chèvres” lives up to its hype. With strict organic farming, long vinifications in oak, crystalline purity through single-vineyard expression and no dosage, these wines are arguably the most hallowed of the region. After four years on lees and two more post-disgorgement, today’s severely limited wine comes at a pretty penny, but this singular bottle is the honest soul of Champagne—and one that few will ever call theirs. We only have a couple of cases to offer our entire subscribership. Good luck!
Vincent Laval crafts champagnes that are almost unclassifiable in terms of their vinous power, harmonious focus, and lingering persistence. They are kindred spirits to the greatest Burgundies and they are as sure a bet for long cellar aging as any wine in the world. We’ve mentioned many times here how the greatest Champagnes feel ‘vinous’ (wine-like). These are some of the most vinous Champagnes you’ll ever taste. Although the Laval family has grown grapes in Cumières for generations, it wasn’t until 1971 that the (late) Georges Laval began releasing estate-bottled wines. Georges’ son, Vincent, took over in 1996, with a hands-on approach to the family’s small parcels in this Premier Cru-designated village. Among the many notable features of the Laval wines is the family’s longtime commitment to organic viticulture—they’ve been certified since 1971, which at the time, only a few others were.
Laval’s grapes are typically harvested later than those of his neighbors—rather than pick grapes early (to preserve acidity) and then add sugar via ‘chaptalization’ (to bring potential alcohol up), Laval aims for perfectly ripe fruit. His goals also extend into redirecting the discussion toward place of origin and varietal character. Take “Les Hautes Chèvres”: A tiny hillside vineyard in the town of Cumières that is home to ancient Pinot Noir and Meunier vines, first planted in 1931 and 1930, respectively. Starting in 2004, Laval bottled this single-vineyard expression as 100% Pinot Noir, but, sadly, had to rip up these sacred vines up in 2012. He then turned to his small block of Meunier. In his cellar, these late-picked grapes were sent into a traditional wooden Coquard press and were then shuttled into old Burgundy barrels (purchased from Chassagne-Montrachet) for nearly a year while they underwent a cold, indigenous fermentation and subsequent aging. After bottling, the wine aged on lees until disgorgement in 2016. A cork was inserted without fining, filtration, or any addition of sugar.
I guarantee a nervous spell will come over you when pulling the cork—not because you’ll be wondering if it lives up to the hype and price (it does), but because this rare bottle generates so much intrigue and awe. Temperature and drinking vessel is key here: keep around 50-55 degrees and serve in your largest flared tulips, or even Burgundy stems. After allowing the wine to come into its own after 5-10 minutes in your glass, it erupts with some of the most powerful and energetic aromas one can find in 100% Meunier champagne. “Les Hautes Chèvres” shows concentrated aromas that don’t just trickle, but leap from the glass. It’s intensely floral and mineral, highlighted by honeysuckle, lavender, oyster shell salinity, crushed chalk, and wet stones. These all serve to enhance the high-toned aromas of currant, marzipan, dried herbs, white pepper, sliced red apples, and a mixture of plums. Full-bodied with brilliant acidity, this manages to hit every inch of your palate while staying nimble throughout. One taste puts this in an elite category—it’s one of Champagne’s most powerful, enchanting, and simultaneously chameleonic single-variety wines, and it will only keep transforming over the next decade. It’s a giant of a wine. Serve with your closest companions and a large selection of cheeses or take it to a high-end Japanese restaurant for a luxurious experience.
