You need not look far to find rave reviews of the Bien Nacido Vineyard: This region- and state-defining site was planted by the Miller family in 1973 and, since then, has been labeled a “Top Grand Cru Vineyard,” “Vineyard of the Year,” and “Top 25 Vineyard of the World.”
Over the decades, dozens upon dozens of California’s greatest producers have jockeyed to slap the coveted “Bien Nacido” name on their labels, many of which have resulted in iconic expressions of Pinot Noir. In 2007, however, something happened that the wine world had eagerly been waiting for: The Millers decided to bottle a microbatch of their own wines, on property. Who better to understand this sprawling blue-chip vineyard than the owners themselves? With their time-honored viticultural skills (they know which blocks of the vineyard perform best) and the brilliance of winemaker Trey Fletcher, their wines immediately became blockbuster sensations. If you need reassurance, just take a gander at the crazy press this 2014 is receiving. It’s a Pinot Noir masterpiece filled with an evocative Burgundian bouquet and the breathtaking finesse that this prized Santa Maria terroir brings. Best of all? It’s AFFORDABLE!
In the mid-1850s, the Ontiveros family was granted a deed to a parcel originally called Rancho Tepusquet, near Santa Barbara in California. This was a land grant offered by the then-Governor of Mexico as a homestead for his daughter and new son-in-law to create a future and family. From the first days of their time at Rancho Tepusquet, the Ontiveros family had raised cows, horses, and other livestock next to a small tributary of the Santa Maria River. With a crystalline water source and nearly 2,000 acres of pasture land, the family started building their home. Then came Bob and Steve Miller, members of their own fourth-generation farming family, both of whom found this pristine property in 1969 when they were offered two contiguous parcels of land that were part of the original Rancho Tepusquet. With the chance to continue a tradition of farming sustainably and focusing on the highest quality, the two original parcels were reunited and rechristened “Bien Nacido.” Directly (and appropriately) translated as “well-born,” Bien Nacido is about as purebred as vineyards come.
Bob and Steve saw this land as a perfect home for wine grapes. Santa Maria Valley is technically classified as a “Winkler Region 1b.” This is as cold, in terms of average temperature, as Champagne; the Mosel Valley in Germany; Kremstal in Austria; and Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. Understanding this, the Millers planted the vineyard with the first certified virus-free clones of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from UC Davis in 1973. Being pristine land, these clones were planted on their own roots and, to this day, have remained phylloxera-free. In fact, much of the Chardonnay planted in the past 30 years in California has been taken directly from the nursery at Bien Nacido.
Bien Nacido proudly claims to be the United States’ most influential single-vineyard source, with more than 160 producers over 44 years having used “Bien Nacido” on their labels. Only vineyards in Burgundy have been designated more, and I am certain that has something to do with their 700-year history. After the Miller family farmed this vineyard for 37 years, Steve’s youngest son, Nicholas (now the fifth generation) was inspired by the maturity of the vines and the understanding of this vineyard, so he decided to make some small-production wines. Under the guidance of winemaker Trey Fletcher, the Bien Nacido Estate wines are made to showcase this sustainably farmed terroir by limiting the factors in the winery that would take away from that. This 2014 was hand-harvested at night, fermented using only native yeasts, then aged 18 months in French oak barrels, 33% of which were new. It was bottled unfiltered and has been resting in their cellar ever since.
Bien Nacido Vineyard’s 2014 Estate Pinot Noir, while distinctly Californian in style, possesses everything I search for when it comes to the pinnacle of red Burgundy. It flashes a deep ruby core with a soft ruby-pink rim and aromas unfurl in waves as the wine soaks up oxygen over the course of 2-3 hours. Bushels of black raspberry, black cherries, wild strawberries burst out and seamlessly blend into freshly-picked roses—stem, petal, and the flecks of earth that accompany it. Dried herbs, pomegranate seeds, and orange peel follow alongside a vibrant mix of peppercorns, black tea, crushed rocks, orange zest, and soft notes of baking spice. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth yet formidable structure that is a perfect balance between sweet and savory. It finishes long and sonorous, showcasing serious tension, well-integrated oak, and a firm mineral underpinning that defines the best of Bien Nacido. Really, that’s what this wine is: the best Pinot Noir parcels from one of the world’s best vineyards. As such, it will age effortlessly over the next 10-15 years and should be entering its peak around 2020. Serve in your largest Burgundy stems around 60 degrees and match it with a succulent lemon-herb duck breast for a special treat. Cheers!
