There are only 11 domaines that can claim ownership in the precious “Richebourg” vineyard. Gros Frère et Soeur is one of the lucky few, with less than one hectare of real estate. Still, with this tiny sliver, they manage to craft stunning achievements that speak to Pinot Noir’s purity and the power of a world-class terroir. The name “Gros” on a wine label truly means something and seeing “Richebourg” attached to it makes this one of Burgundy’s most sought-after wines. Having now visited the domaine several times, I can say that few other families in Burgundy match the reputation and quality that the Gros’ achieve year after year, yet the microscopic allocation we received won’t even warrant a forklift—it can be carried in the hands of our SommSelect team! 

Warning: A complicated family tree lies ahead, so proceed at your own risk. The Gros family arrived in Vosne-Romanée in the 1830s and subsequently began a winemaking dynasty in Burgundy. Gros Frère et Soeur was formed in 1963 when brother and sister (frère et soeur) Gustave and Colette combined their land inheritance after their father’s estate holdings from Domaine Gros-Renaudot were split among his sons and daughters (thanks to Napoleon I decreeing that estates must be equally split between the owner’s children). A further subdivision occurred when Gustave and Colette’s brother, Jean Gros, divvied up his holdings between his own offspring, Michel Gros, Anne-Françoise Gros (not to be confused with famed Anne Gros, who is their cousin), and Bernard Gros. Instead of forming his own domaine, Bernard Gros took over for Uncle Gustave at Gros Frère et Soeur when he passed away in 1984. Bernard now represents the sixth generation of Gros winemakers and today, his son Vincent joins his side. Now, can you recite all that? 

Richebourg is divided into two lieux-dits, “Le Richebourg” and “Les Véroilles-ou-Richebourg,” with Bernard and Vincent’s 1.7-acre parcel lying in the latter. Soils are the classic limestone-clay blend and Gros Frère et Soeur farms according to lutte raisonnée principles; they drastically restrict yields and pruning is done to an almost neurotic extent in order to achieve the greatest levels of ripeness and concentration. In the winery, de-stemmed grapes ferment in stainless steel vats and age in entirely new French oak for about 16 months. The wine is lightly fined and always bottled unfiltered. 

As I’ve mentioned before with Gros Frère, they somehow manage to produce a silken, polished, and hauntingly powerful Richebourg no matter the vintage, so when presented with a year that  was a paragon of classic Burgundy across the board, this wine shined like never before. Given a few hours of air before drinking (but preferably left to rest for many undisturbed years in your cellar), it delivers unfathomable nuances within a powerfully structured yet elegant Pinot Noir. Fast approaching its fifth birthday, Gros Frère et Soeur’s 2014 Richebourg is already revealing immense levels of mineral savor and integrated baking spice alongside highly perfumed notes of crushed red and purple flowers, turned earth, black tea, damp mushroom, wild strawberry, muddled blackberries, and basketfuls of late-picked black raspberries and black cherries. The palate is a dark-fruited beauty, brimming with utterly supple tannins and delicately  layered structure—I see this maturing decades in perfect stride, showing more finesse and delicacy in the process. Though it’s becoming increasingly harder in this day and age, “Richebourg” remains a rarefied Grand Cru treat that will impress anyone who steps in the room. Pair it with the attached slow roasted duck with an orange sherry sauce for the dinner of the year!