Just 20% of Domaine du Terme’s wine is sold outside of Gigondas; and only a fraction of that fraction makes it to the US per annum. Factor in those immediately gobbled up by restaurants and the constant stream of private sales that are funnelled directly into cellars, and that leaves what little amount we can provide you all today. “Why all this fuss over Gigondas?” you may ask. Well, when it’s the daughter-father team of Domaine du Terme and a 2015 vintage that’s garnering “legendary” accolades, the answer starts falling into place.
Enologist Anne-Marie Gaudin and her father Rolland—the longtime mayor of Gigondas proper—create magic in small quantities every year, but nothing quite tops what happened in 2015. Critic Antonio Galloni’s “Vinous” publication boldly claims, “If there was ever a southern Rhône vintage worth going wide and long on, ’15 is a winning bet,” and goes on to state that “2015, along with 2010 and 2005, produced one of the most consistently excellent sets of Gigondas I’ve ever had the chance to taste.” Driven by old vines and an exceptionally long
élevage—this wasn’t bottled until the turn of 2018—Domaine du Terme’s evocatively succulent Grenache (80%) blends seamlessly with the rounding force of classic Rhône Syrah. It’s a dazzling tightrope act, asserting itself as a top southern Rhône red with its freshness, opulent texture, and age-worthiness. Ultimately, this is a booming investment for a super-low entry fee—don’t miss out on it!
While it is true that (a) both Gigondas and Châteauneuf are Grenache-based blends, and (b) the two towns are only about 10 miles apart, they are nevertheless different terroirs. The vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape are lower-lying hills and alluvial plateaus with high percentages of sand and river cobble, while the vineyards of Gigondas climb to higher elevations, into the foothills of the limestone-rich Dentelles de Montmirail—a shark-toothed mountain range that looms over the town and shapes the style of its wines.
That’s where you’ll find Domaine du Terme and the Gaudins—a winemaking family since 1870. Of their total 25 hectares spread out between four appellations, 11 of them are in Gigondas, with vines hovering around the 50-year mark. Anne-Marie farms in an organic, chemical-free fashion, but doesn’t bother with certifications because, to her, treating the land naturally is common sense. In the winery, 90% of the crop is de-stemmed before an extended fermentation with natural yeasts. Twelve months in large, neutral casks follows, and, for this batch, an unfiltered bottling occurred in January of 2018. Factoring in the additional bottle aging, that’s nearly three years of maturation before it lands at your door—an impressive feat for such a low price tag!
Domaine du Terme’s Gigondas from the stunning 2015 vintage reveals an intense dark ruby core in the glass with flashes of ruby-pink on the rim. Opulent, brambly fruit jumps boldly to the fore alongside powerful purple and red florals; after minutes, it unloads with more intoxicating layers of licorice, peppercorn, cherry and raspberry liqueur, boysenberry, blueberry compote, garrigue, and baking spices. There’s no shortage of depth and ripeness, but it is balanced by buoyant freshness—something that can be tough to master down here in southern Rhône. Unlike many wines from top-performing” vintages that only perform well for the first few years after bottling, Domaine du Terme can be enjoyed now—it’s already in fine form today—but will continue improving for 5-7 years. If you’re one who enjoys a well-aged Rhône, keep your last few bottles until 2030+ and see how much they surprise you; for $28, it offers one amazing investment! Decant about 30 minutes before service in Bordeaux stems and keep the temperature closer to 60 degrees for best results. Pair it with something hearty and grilled: I enjoyed a hunk of perfectly cooked medium-rare Santa Maria tri-tip several weeks back, but didn’t have du Terme’s Gigondas on hand. A (hard) lesson learned—don’t make my same mistake!