We’ve had a chance to taste a critical mass of white Burgundies from the 2016 vintage, and so far, as I’ve noted in other offers, there’s lots of reason for excitement: Although ’16 got off to a challenging start and saw sharply reduced yields in many places as a result, the end product was often as opulent and accessible young as that of 2015.
But whereas ’15s occasionally skewed ultra-ripe, the ’16s have shown much more lift and firmness of structure; they are wines that are both tantalizing to drink now and destined for improvement with time in the cellar. Not surprisingly, this is especially true of the elite-level wines—case in point being today’s Meursault Premier Cru “Les Genevrières” from Latour-Giraud. This producer, and this vineyard, are just flat-out great: Latour-Giraud has been showered with flattering press, and of course “Les Genevrières,” along with “Les Charmes” and Les Perrières,” is regularly mentioned as one of the Meursault Premier Crus that is deserving of “elevation” (it is a little shocking that Meursault has no Grand Crus). As it stands, this bottling is scandalously undervalued at $110. All that’s left to say, really, is that we don’t have very much to share: just six bottles per person until our stock runs out. This is one to pounce on!
The roots of Domaine Latour-Giraud date back to the French Revolution, when the property belonged solely to the Latour family. It wasn’t until 1958 that Pierre Latour married the only daughter of Charles Giraud, uniting the Latour and Giraud legacies. Today, the son of that union, Jean-Pierre, runs the domaine with the help of his sister, Florence. When they assumed control in the 1990s, there was a complete overhaul—what they call a “true cultural revolution”—where organic practices were adopted, yields were cut drastically, their barrel program was adjusted, and minimalist winemaking was adopted. In the last two decades, they’ve become an important name to know in Meursault. Critic Antonio Galloni described them as “one of the most thoughtful and intelligent producers in the village.”
The family’s roughly 25 acres are all estate-owned and classified vineyards. They have over six acres in “Les Genevrières,” which may not seem like much, but it makes them the most prominent landholder in the cru. Seeing as they are the most established, most of their vines are pushing past 50 years of age. All grapes are harvested by hand (slightly earlier to balance out the richness of the final wine) and then fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. This is followed with bâtonnage (lees-stirring) and sur lie aging in a combination of neutral and new (25-35%) French oak. The wines are once-racked and bottled unfiltered over the course of six months, rather than all at once—each barrel develops differently, so although this is a time-consuming process, it’s well worth the wait.
We offered the 2014 vintage of this wine a little while back; by way of comparison, I’d describe the ’16 as a touch richer but no less noble in bearing. In the glass, “Les Genevrières” displays a shimmering yellow-gold core with tints of green and silver. The aromas are a heady mix of toasted hazelnut, bergamot oil, lemon blossoms, Asian pear, yellow apple, white flowers, honeysuckle, white button mushroom, lime blossom, crushed stone, and accents of exotic spices. It is full-bodied and rich yet tautly structured, with great balancing acidity and mineral tension. Expressive notes of pear, quince, toasted nuts, and wet stones linger on the finish. It’s a textbook definition of top-notch Meursault and one that will age effortlessly over the next two decades, with its best drinking starting on its sixth birthday. If you don’t want to wait, fear not—allow for a 60-minute decant or pull the cork mid-morning if you’re planning to enjoy it over dinner. In short—elite white Burgundy you’ll remember long after you’ve finished the bottle. Be sure to pair it with a suitably impressive main course; while it’s been done, it’s hard to argue with a classic sole
meunière. Spot-on and simple. Enjoy!
