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Domaine du Grand Pré, Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly, “Le Mont”

Burgundy, France 2016 (750mL)
Regular price$26.00
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Domaine du Grand Pré, Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly, “Le Mont”

If you're as infatuated with white Burgundy as I am, then you will appreciate today’s wine as much as I do. Prices for whites from the Côte de Beaune’s ‘big three’—Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault—can turn stratospheric in a hurry, which is why Domaine du Grand Pré’s “Le Mont” is not merely a relief but a revelation: With each passing vintage, it feels more and more outdated to refer to Burgundy’s Mâconnais as an ‘alternative,’ or ‘outer-borough’ terroir.
Today’s 2016 is a perfect example of how prices have yet to catch up with quality in the Mâcon—and why so many of the Côte de Beaune’s big names have made investments there. The commune of Solutré-Pouilly may not be quite as famous as neighbors such as Fuissé (to the south) and Vergisson (north), but that may soon change if Grand Pré owner/winemaker Camille Paquet keeps turning out stunners like this: The 2016 Le Mont is round and rich, as Mâconnais wines are wont to be, but also displays tremendous mineral character and great tension. I’d wager that even the most experienced Burgundy tasters would sample this wine blind and label it a Côte de Beaune white costing twice as much. It’s that good. At this insane price-to-quality, it’s a wine to purchase by the case and drink often. When you put your nose in the glass you will understand what I mean.
Mâcon-Solutré-Pouilly is one of the many village-specific wines of the broader Mâcon region, and it’s worth noting that Solutré-Pouilly has a giant limestone escarpment of its own, La Roche du Solutré, to rival the famed “rock” of neighboring Vergisson. Paquet’s “Le Mont” is one of several Solutré-Pouilly bottlings carrying the name, referring to vineyards that climb the Roche du Solutré’s steep, high slopes. Boasting a high concentration of limestone and a healthy supply of ancient marine fossils, the soils of “Le Mont” deliver wines that combine concentration and electricity, a feature Paquet accentuates by only aging the wine for 10 months in stainless steel tanks. He farms his small collection of old-vine sites organically, and inoculates fermentations using native yeasts only. What struck me most about today’s wine was its exceptional purity: it’s what the wine geeks call a ‘transparent’ wine, bursting to soil and varietal character but otherwise eschewing any makeup.

Rich in color with a straw yellow core with green hues at the rim, the 2016 “Le Mont” has rich and intense aromatics of yellow apple blossoms, Bosc pear, white peach, raw hazelnut, acacia and hawthorne flowers, oyster shells, a faint touch of honey with accents of crushed limestone. On the near full-bodied palate, the push-pull of creamy, ripe fruit and acid/minerality tautness suggests a white Burgundy of much-more-expensive pedigree. Not only is it delicious now with about 30 minutes in a decanter, it will age nicely over the next 3-5 years if you can keep your hands off a few bottles. I’ve got to say, though, at this price it’s got ‘house white’ written all over it: grab a case and dip into it periodically over the next few months (or beyond—not everyone goes through wine as fast as I do!). Serve it at 50 degrees in large Burgundy stems next to your preferred roast chicken preparation for the most elevated Tuesday night dinner in recent memory. Cheers!
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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