When it comes to North vs. South, I drink much more wine from Northern Rhône—a region where you usually pay a premium to play—but when a wine is this good at such a low price, it quickly changes what’s in my glass. After tasting today’s wine, I proclaimed it my favorite Southern Rhône value in years (plural!).
Domaine du Grand Montmirail brings glory to the historic Gigondas appellation at a staggeringly low price: its perfumed aromas of wild black fruits, kirsch, wild herbs, cured meat, and black pepper are as pure as any I’ve had. And there’s no need for any creative graphic design when you’ve got a property like this one: just put a picture of the place on your label and the wine should sell itself! I say “should” because (a) a beautiful place of origin doesn’t guarantee a beautiful wine; and (b) there isn’t due respect afforded the great terroirs of the southern Rhône (aside from the cobble-strewn vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape nearby). The vineyards supplying this Gigondas have everything going for them—high elevation; a full-south exposure; clay and limestone soils; old vines—and proprietor Yves Chéron doesn’t squander such spectacular raw material, especially not in a superb vintage like 2015. Driven by old-vine Grenache (80%), “Cuvée Les Deux Juliette” hits you with the full force of the southern Rhône sun but balances it with freshness—not a surprise, given the estate’s lofty perch in the shadow of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range. As we often assert, we mustn’t paint the southern Rhône with the same broad brush: Bargain price aside, this is a special wine that easily competes with Châteauneufs costing twice as much.
As if to ensure a high bar in the production of this cuvée, Chéron named it for “two Juliettes” of great importance: his own daughter and the daughter of importer Charles Neal, both of whom are named Juliette. The driving force in the blend is Grenache from 55-65-year-old vines, presented without any oak adornment (it’s aged in enamel-lined cement tanks for about a year before bottling), and its purity and energy are calling cards: In an appellation often known for blunt force, this wine has great balance, minerality, and elegance.
Overall, the vineyard holdings of Domaine du Grand Montmirail span 35 hectares planted on terraces known locally as banquettes. The main soil composition is sedimentary clay flecked with limestone, with the granite peaks of the Dentelles (meaning “lace,” which the jagged ridge resembles) ever-present in the background. At around 350 meters’ elevation, these are some of the highest-elevation vineyards in Gigondas, enjoying cooler nighttime temperatures that help moderate ripeness and encourage balance. At the same time, the Dentelles effectively wall the area off from the north and protect it from harsher wintertime elements. It is, like most of the greatest vineyards of nearby Provence and almost-perfect amphitheater taking in all-day sun. Also notable is a network of springs flowing underneath the vineyards, effectively eliminating any of the drought stress that affects other parts of the zone in some years.
All of which begs the question: Is all this reflected in the finished product? The answer is a resounding yes, even in a hot vintage like 2015. There’s no shortage of depth and ripeness, but it is well-balanced by buoyant freshness. It’s also worth noting that the Syrah character (just 15% of the blend) shines through, as tasting confirms: In the glass, it’s a dark ruby moving to garnet at the rim, with aromas of wild blackberries, kirsch, raspberry, licorice, lavender, cured meat, and a hint of black pepper. Medium-plus in bodied and supple on the palate, it avoids any ‘syrupy’ inklings thanks to its bright acidity and warm spice. It’s ready to drink now and over the next 5-7 years: simply decant about 30 minutes before service in Bordeaux stems and keep the temperature closer to 60 degrees for best results. This wine will age gracefully in your cellar, so I advise laying some down; at this price it is an incredible choice to share with friends when perfectly mature. Pair it with something hearty and grilled this summer or hang onto some for winter braises (it’ll be here before you know it!). Enjoy!
