We’ve offered Domaine Fayolle’s sensational “Les Dionnières” Hermitage twice now, and both times it sold at a record pace. This time around, we thought we’d go further afield (and a rung down the price ladder) and explore Crozes-Hermitage—where Fayolle over-delivered yet again with their insanely affordable “La Grande Seguine.”
Since Crozes-Hermitage is much larger and more geologically diverse than tiny Hermitage, we tend to paint the AOC with a broad brush. But, there are several pockets of prime real estate and traditional producers who take Crozes-Hermitage to another level. Domaine Fayolle certainly has with their small-batch, handcrafted “La Grande Seguine,” named for the three-acre lieu-dit vineyard it is sourced from. For this affordable price, I can hardly think of a Syrah that matches its fine-grained texture, aromatic lift, and minerality. Even if you generally skip over Syrah, you should think twice today: this brilliant display of vinous art will undoubtedly please any red drinker. Furthermore, 2015 vintage was a Rhône vintage for the ages—one that legendary Marcel Guigal called the best of his 55+-year career. There are just too many positives and too low a price to pass up this amazing red value.
After obtaining a viticulture-enology degree in 2003, Nicolas Fayolle joined his father, Jean-Claude, and worked by his side until he retired three years later. Third-generation Nicolas was extremely well-trained, so he was able to continue crafting superb, micro-production wines. Oddly, Nicolas’ grandfather, who founded the estate in 1958, was tending to apricots in these rows for most of his life, not grapes. As decades passed, they slowly transitioned away from apricots, with 2011 marking the final year. Now, Domaine Fayolle’s humble 17 acres are solely planted to grapes and they are focused on crafting exceptional, small-production wines.
Due to Fayolle’s sustainable farming philosophies, along with the steep inclines of their family-owned vineyards, they farm and harvest by hand (the lay of the land makes mechanization nearly impossible anyway). Nicolas’ three acres of “La Grande Seguine” is within the lieu-dit of “Les Pontaix”—a vineyard just north of Crozes-Hermitage proper, which lies just beyond the hill of Hermitage. Grapes from 38-year-old vines are sent to their winery in small crates and pumped into temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. After a whole-bunch fermentation and a lengthy maceration, the wine is transferred into 600-liter, neutral French barrels for 15 months. It is bottled as 100% Syrah, with a light filtration.
“La Grande Seguine” shines a dense, dark ruby in the glass with crimson hues flashing out to a bright magenta rim. The 2015 vintage immediately proclaims itself on the nose with ripe, rich aromas of blackcurrant, black raspberry liqueur, huckleberry, blueberry coulis, licorice, subtle spices, damp herbs, cracked pepper, olive, dried meat, and purple flowers. The palate reveals a lush wine, full of plump black fruits with a touch of blue and a savory dusting of crushed-rock minerality. Tannins are firm and fine, and a refreshing surge of acidity rounds out the finish, creating a “must drink more” sensation. What makes 2015 so addictive is its ability to drink early, and, although this will trend in a positive direction over the next 3-7 years, “La Grande Seguine” is too delicious not to drink now. Certainly save a couple, but decant the others for 30 minutes and pour into Bordeaux stems around 60-65 degrees (drinking it in this temp window does wonders). Serve next to braised lamb shanks and prepare yourself for a hearty meal of epic proportions. Cheers!