Presiding over what is probably the deepest collection of Premier and Grand Cru vineyard parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet, Jean-Marc Pillot is one of the most consistently high-achieving producers we feature on SommSelect. Pillot’s wines are the product of meticulous organic farming, and they can always be relied upon to provide bold fruit, crystal-clear delineation between individual terroirs, and impressive class both in their youth and after years in the cellar. Of course, the one frustrating hitch to this otherwise uplifting story is that Jean-Marc’s wines are not cheap—and they only become more challenging to acquire with each passing vintage. In SommSelect’s first year of business, we offered multiple back vintages and new releases of Pillot’s top wines. Today, with the ongoing deluge of critical praise and industry enthusiasm for Pillot’s Chassagne-Montrachet bottlings, the flow of these wines into the country has all but dried up. Fortunately, our early and longstanding support still affords us “first dibs” access to many of Jean-Marc’s most limited wines, and today’s wine is one of our favorites!

Of the “big three” white wine villages of the Côte de Beaune (Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet; Meursault), Chassagne is the only one still producing a significant percentage (around 40% actually) red wines. That percentage used to be higher, in fact, and the reasons for converting Pinot Noir over to Chardonnay in the village are largely commercial—the greatest Chardonnay vineyards in the world are here and in adjacent Puligny, so it’s no wonder many growers made the switch. Like most of his neighbors, Pillot’s overall production is dominated by whites but includes a noteworthy number of red bottlings as well—including three from Premier Cru sites. “Mes Vieilles Vignes” carries a village designation but performs at a much higher level, delivering a level of old-vine concentration and earthy structure to rival the very best from the Côte de Beaune’s more ‘red-oriented’ appellations.

Pillot’s 2013 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge “Mes Vielles Vignes” cascades from the decanter with recognizable boldness of color and shine. On the nose, the story is similar: bright, plump cherries and glistening red berries practically leap from the glass. The purity of the fruit and filigree detail of the flowers, herbs and mushrooms painting this gorgeous wine’s edges offer convincing testament to Jean-Marc’s already well-recognized cellar talents, and the unparalleled selection of real estate he commands in this village. At four-plus years of age, this wine has entered its prime. The hard edges are gone, the subtle oak is perfectly integrated, and there is a wonderful harmony between youthful fruit and advancing savory qualities. I have little doubt that this wine will continue generously sharing its many gifts for another 7-9 years. All you need to do is, decant the bottle for 30 minutes and serve in large Burgundy stems at just above cellar temperature. If you want to take this already extremely classy wine to the next level, I welcome you to drink it with the same dish I prepared. Jamie Oliver’s braised veal leg should be called “Built-for-Burgundy Veal Leg.” Today’s wine alongside this perfect veal preparation, a cauliflower gratin, and a fresh baguette, came together with relative effortlessness to create one of my favorite meals of the year. Enjoy!