When we claimed this could be the best-value Hermitage on the market a few months ago, you all jumped on our limited supply and ran us dry in record time. Well, we contacted the importer, who in turn did the same with Domaine Fayolle—and a fresh batch has recently arrived.
For those who previously missed it: This is a microscopic release of stunning Northern Rhône Syrah from “Les Dionnières,” a lieu-dit vineyard that sits near the base of Hermitage. Most of the 345 acres on this towering hillside appellation are sectioned off for the big players of the region, but there are a few small growers blessed with tiny parcels. The father-son team Jean-Claude and Nicolas Fayolle own just two acres, which they farm with the utmost care. We were shocked when we obtained another small allocation of this 200-case production wine and now, mathematically speaking, there can only be a handful of cases remaining in the world. Here’s what you’re getting: an under-the-radar producer; hand-crafted wine from one of the most coveted sites for Syrah in the world; and the incredible 2015 vintage, one that legendary Marcel Guigal called the best of his 55+-year career. This truly is the greatest price-to-quality Hermitage we’ve offered and I was upset that we could only offer three per customer last time. Today, we’ve finagled our way into offering six, so take advantage! This is the “last call.”
Jean-Claude and Nicolas Fayolle (second and third generation, respectively) are crafting superb, micro-production Hermitage wines in both rouge and blanc incarnations. Nicolas has been alongside his father since 2003, after obtaining a viticulture-enology degree in Mâcon. Previously, Nicolas’ grandfather, who founded of the estate in 1958, was tending to apricots in these rows, not grapes. Jean-Claude slowly began the conversion as the estate evolved, but it’s odd to imagine, on such a treasured hillside where Syrah grapes are treated as jewels, that anything else would be planted. Today, the Fayolle family’s handful of owned acres are now 100% committed to grape-growing and winemaking.
The Fayolles’ parcel in “Les Dionnières” sits on a soft slope on the eastward continuation of
Hermitage’s majestic hilltop (their plot is down the hill and to the left). Their Syrah vines are approximately 40 years of age and are planted in granitic clay soils with a large presence of small pebbles. Due to Fayolle’s
lutte raisonnée (‘reasoned fight’) farming philosophy, along with the steep inclines found on Hermitage, they farm and harvest by hand (the lay of the land makes mechanization impossible anyway). After a whole-bunch fermentation with twice-a-day punchdowns, the wine was sent into neutral oak
barriques (roughly 8-10 years old) for 15 months. After a light filtering, the wine is bottled, 100% Syrah. Out of the tiny production, most stays in France; some was sold off to
négociants; and some of the remainder we squeezed out of its importer so we could offer it to you.
In the glass, Fayolle’s 2015 Dionnières flaunts its youth with a concentrated deep purple core leading out to a dark magenta rim. On the nose, this inky heavyweight reveals itself with fresh aromas of boysenberry, blackberry liqueur, blueberry, black cherry, wild purple flowers, roasted meats, olive tapenade, and subtle spice. Coming in full-bodied, you’ll be met with unmatched density and richness that is directly countered by perfect tension. The lifted acidity here keeps the palate from feeling “weighed down” and the vibrant black and blue core of fruit shines through gracefully. As with other blue-chip Northern Rhône wines, this will reward exponentially the longer you wait, entering its prime at year seven or eight years—though you can expect this to keep for decades if stored properly (some of my favorite aged wines of all time have been 25+-year-old Hermitage). If waiting a quarter-century sounds tiring, please decant as long as possible; I’d advise a minimum 2-3 hours before consuming in large Bordeaux stems. Whichever you choose—waiting or drinking now—I’m confident you’ll be stunned, especially when paired alongside a decadent and flavorful Lamb Biryani. The attached recipe is about as detailed and informative as you can get. Enjoy!
