Domaine du Deffends in Provence’s Coteaux Varois has earned a worldwide cult following for its inexpensive, age-worthy, and deeply complex wines. As far as price-to-quality goes, today’s isn’t just one of the deals of the year, but of the century.
Out of their lineup, “Champs de la Truffière,” a Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend, is sommelier catnip—making it nearly impossible to find. The importer told us they’ve been out of stock in New York for two years and that our allocation, shipped from the estate’s cellar this year, was the very last of the 2014. If you’re curious about the blend, it isn’t as bizarre as you may think: Domaine de Trevallon, also located in Provence, is renowned for the style and up until the end of the 1800s, Bordeaux winemakers would blend in Rhône Valley Syrah to ramp up their wines in trying vintages (“super second” Château Palmer makes a special cuvée as an homage). Additionally, “Champs de la Truffière” is certified organic and will age effortlessly: do yourself a huge favor and take your share, because at $24, there are few wines in the world that can compete. And because we won’t be seeing this wine again, we can offer up to a case per customer today.
In 1963, Jacques de Lanversin trekked over to this centuries-old, but neglected, estate and purchased it outright. Located in the foothills alongside an ancient Roman road (which has led to them discovering several artifacts), this land has been planted to vines for thousands of years. Jacques originally replanted traditional varieties here, but Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon followed soon after. And, when later faced with the decision to rip up the vines and plant grains or build a cuverie and produce wine, he chose the latter. The results were reds with style and complexity, part of the reason Provence is now known for more than rosé production. Jacques has since passed on, but his wife Suzel de Lanversin continues producing wine (her son, Emmanuel, is next in line) and carrying the domaine. Since inception, they have practiced organics in the vineyard and ECOCERT certification was officially granted in 2009.
The domaine finds home in the western reaches of Coteaux Varois, about twenty miles north of Bandol. Today’s wine, “Champs de la Truffière,” was named for the abundance of truffles that surround the vineyards. There are many factors that make this 15-acre vineyard a gem: it receives protection from the neighboring foothills of the Aurélien range, enjoys clay-limestone soils à la Burgundy, and the 40-year-old vines sit at an elevation of 1500 feet which allows for a cooler climate! Per organic viticulture, all farming was carried out without the use of chemicals or pesticides and harvesting was done by hand. In the winery, the Cabernet Sauvignon was completely destemmed, but the Syrah saw whole cluster fermentation. Aging occurred in a combination of concrete vessels (70%) and large foudres (30%) for two years before the final blend (55% Syrah, 45% Cab) was bottled.
In the glass, Domaine du Deffends’ 2014 “Champs de la Truffière” exhibits a dark ruby-purple core moving out to light ruby reflections of the rim. The nose greets you with a perfect marriage of Bordeaux and Rhône: black and blue plum, blackcurrant, black cherry, red and purple flowers, raw leather, cracked peppercorn, aniseed, damp clay, garrigue, and soft baking spices. The fruits present a soft core of ripe sweetness, but on the palate they sit on the edge of the backseat while beautiful notes of savory earth navigate. At medium-plus bodied, it finishes long and full of concentration, full of svelte fruits and supple tannins. If consuming now, decant for at least one hour and serve around 60-65 degrees. Even while drinking, try and make the bottle last for as long as possible—it will certainly continue unfolding over several hours. Keen collectors will also be happy to know this will keep for the next decade and beyond. For a classic pairing, consume next to a traditional Provençal beef stew; wine always loves being paired with its local counterpart! Enjoy!
