Antonio Galloni said it best: I'm not sure if Latour-Giraud has yet been properly recognized as one of the most thoughtful and intelligent producers in the village. I wholeheartedly agree, but labeling Meursault as a mere village (although it is) hardly does its surrounding vines any justice. The narrow strip of connecting vineyards in Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne is some of the wine world’s finest real estate and drinking today’s “Les Genevrières” will immediately transport you into the upper-echelons of white Burgundy.
Domaine Latour-Giraud’s 2014 is absolutely epic. It’s a wine of supremacy; delicately crafted, but full of unremitting power and grace. At a dinner party it would proudly, dauntlessly stand above others—white or red—with its dense fruit, rich nuttiness, and energetic freshness. If Meursault were reclassified today, I am a firm believer that at least three of its Premier Cru vineyards could receive Grand Cru nods (“Les Genevrières,” “Les Charmes,” and Les Perrières”). There’s no doubt that “Les Genevrières” has that much clout and prestige, and when you factor in an exceptionally balanced wine from a vintage like 2014, it’s hard not to view its not-insignificant price as a bargain. A steal, even. This is a wine in high demand and although we grabbed all we could, it still didn’t amount to much—we’re able to offer up to three bottles per customer until our stock runs out.
The roots of Domaine Latour-Giraud date back to the French Revolution when the property belonged solely to the Latour family. It wasn’t until 1958 that Pierre Latour married the only daughter of Charles Giraud, uniting the Latour-Giraud legacies. Today, the son of that union, Jean-Pierre, runs the domaine with the help of his sister, Florence. When they assumed control in the 90’s, there was a complete overhaul—what they call a “true cultural revolution”—where organic practices were adopted, yields were cut drastically, their barrel program was ramped up, and minimalist winemaking was adopted. In the last two decades they’ve become a leading White Burgundy producer and, subsequently, one of the finest Meursault has to offer.
Their ~25 acres are all estate-owned and classified vineyards. They have over six acres in “Les Genevrières,” which may not seem like much, but it makes them the most prominent landholder in this Premier Cru. Seeing as they are the most established, the majority of their vines are pushing past fifty years of age. All grapes are harvested by hand (slightly earlier to balance out the richness of the final wine) and then fermented with indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. This is followed with bâtonnage (lees-stirring) and sur lie aging in a combination of neutral and new (25-35%) French Oak. The wines are once-racked and bottled unfiltered over the course of six months, rather than all at once—each barrel develops different, so although this is a time-consuming process it’s well worth the wait.
In the glass, “Les Genevrières” displays a shimmering pale-gold, dark-yellow core with tints of green and silver darting throughout. Incredible concentration in the glass carries over to the seductive nose with perfumed notes of toasted hazelnut, bergamot oil, lemon blossoms, asian pear, yellow apple, high-toned white flowers, honeysuckle, buttery lees, lime blossom, crushed stone, and accents of exotic spices. The palate is dense and full-bodied without overbearing with fruit or alcohol. It’s seamlessly structured with incredible freshness and mineral tension that creates perfect balance. Expressive notes of pear, quince, toasted nuts, and stony minerality linger on the finish. It’s a textbook definition of top-notch Meursault and one that will age effortlessly over the next two decades, with its best drinking starting on its sixth birthday. If you don’t want to wait, fear not—allow for a 90-minute decant or pull the cork mid-morning if you’re planning to enjoy over dinner. This is a stylishly intense wine brimming with untold precision and freshness, one that will be remembered long after you retire for the night. When drinking, do so in your largest white Burgundy stems around cellar temperature and enjoy next to a rich and nutty preparation of trout. Cheers!
