It would be inaccurate to characterize Château Roc de Cambes as an over-achieving estate in an outlier appellation—much as those are some of our favorites here at SommSelect. No, I’d argue that Roc de Cambes belongs in the elite of Bordeaux’s Right Bank, despite the absence of any official ‘classifications’ on its spare, elegant label.
Owned and run with passion by the Mitjaville family, Roc de Cambes sits on the same limestone “mother rock” that characterizes many of the greatest vineyard sites in St-Émilion, including François and Miloute Mitjaville’s crown jewel, Château Tertre-Roteboeuf. When they came upon the somewhat rundown Roc de Cambes property in the late-1980s, François was convinced he’d found something special, and the wines made here—the products of a thorough replanting of vineyards and significant updating of the cellars—have borne that out. Today’s 2009, the product of a warm, generous vintage, is nothing short of a tour de force, richly concentrated yet pulsing with energy and freshness at the same time. Just now entering its sweet spot a few years shy of its 10th birthday, this wine has many years of opulent, elegant drinking ahead of it; whether it’s a new discovery for you or an old favorite, you’ll be thrilled to have some of this in your cellar. I have had many vintages of Roc de Cambes served blind alongside the most expensive wines from Bordeaux; it always blows people’s minds when the label is finally revealed. We have enough on hand to offer up to six bottles per customer until it sells out.
Located just across the Gironde estuary from Margaux, the Côtes de Bourg remains relatively unheralded among the ‘Right Bank’ appellations of Bordeaux. The region’s soils are a mix of alluvial sand and gravel closer to the river and, up on a plateau that includes Roc de Cambes, a limestone-rich subsoil that sits on the same escarpment that runs through St-Émilion. François Mitjaville, who obtained his earliest education in winemaking at Château Figeac, became a Right Bank vigneron in earnest when his wife inherited Tertre-Roteboeuf in the 1970s; it was he who added the ‘Roteboeuf’ to the estate’s name, looking to distinguish it from several other properties with ‘Tertre’ (meaning ‘mound,’ or ‘hill’) in their names. ‘Roteboeuf’ roughly translates to “roast beef,” in reference to the estate’s previous use as land for cattle grazing, and in addition to raising the profile of that estate, Mitjaville has cultivated a reputation as a lovable eccentric as well as an expert craftsman.
Roc de Cambes has developed a devoted cult following, encompassing roughly 14 hectares planted predominantly to Merlot (which thrives in limestone) in a south-facing amphitheater. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled concrete vats before aging in 100% new French oak barriques. The cépage (blend) reflects the composition of the vineyards: roughly 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon (yes, Sauvignon, not Franc), and 5% Malbec. In a lengthy article published by the wine writer/critic Neal Martin, François reflected on the market perception of the wines from his two properties thusly: “People think that Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf is better because it is in Saint Emilion…the price is more expensive…the speculation of demand more strong,” he said. “But for me these are two great terroirs and the way they are worked and the expense is exactly the same level.”
The voluptuousness of 2009 is on full display here: In the glass, the Roc de Cambes is a dark, nearly opaque garnet red with some encroaching orange at the rim betraying its age. Aromas of preserved black cherry, raspberry, black plum, cacao, ground coffee, bay leaf, and exotic spice jump from the glass and carry over to a polished and full-bodied palate which finishes with layers of nuanced earth notes. What distinguishes this from many ’09s I’ve tried is its focus and freshness: the ripeness is evident but it perfectly lifted by bright acidity. It is a beautifully constructed wine, with exquisitely managed tannins, that still has lots of gas in the tank: If drinking now, decant it about 30 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems next to a seared beef tenderloin in a simple pan sauce. Be sure to set aside a few bottles in your cellar as well—it should really begin peaking in 2020 and continue to drink well for a decade beyond that. This is the real deal! Enjoy!
