The seven Grand Crus of Chablis are still some of the most affordable of Burgundy’s elite whites, with many established producers (like Domaine des Malandes) keeping prices well below triple-digits. Wines from “Les Clos,” the largest and most prominent of the Grand Crus, typically display the most power, and the best are always accompanied with unmatched vibrancy, texture, and minerality. Really, what’s not to like about 100% barrel-aged, old-vine Chardonnay from one of the most prized vineyard sites in Chablis?
For me—as long as prices stay in this range—Grand Cru Chablis from a trusted producer is a must-have wine and a sure bet for cellaring. There will always be a place in my heart for the opulence of Montrachet, but with an eye toward value-for-dollar, Chablis wins 10 times out of 10. Domaine de Malandes remains one of my favorite producers in the region, never wavering from their classic winemaking approach and always delivering a rich and intense wine exploding with energy and limitless aging potential. As far as drinkability, it’s one of those “can’t-go-wrong” wines—gorgeous now with a decant and ready to age gracefully over the next two decades, so take your pick! With only about 5-10 barrels produced annually and demand constantly on the rise, this is not an easy wine to track down; when I found it, I pounced and loaded up—you should too!
Lyne Marchive is a passionate vigneronne who has been at the helm of her family’s domaine since 1972 (as of 2018, she has officially handed the reins to her daughter and son). While she oversees the viticultural aspects, her winemaker, Guénolé Breteaudeau, crafts their wines with as little intervention as possible. Coming from Muscadet territory in the Loire, he was hired in 2006 after obtaining a degree in enology. A fun note: Before Lyne came aboard, most of her holdings had already been put together in the mid-1900s when 2.5 acres of fertile land (i.e. wheat) could be traded for 5 acres of vineyard. Knowing what we do now about the landscape and profitability of wine, one part wheat for two part grapes hardly seems like a fair trade!
Les Clos, the largest and most prominent of the seven Grand Crus of Chablis, spans roughly 63 acres on a perfectly pitched, south/southwest-facing slope. That westward tilt exposes vines to midday and afternoon sun, ensuring optimal ripeness in this cool climate. It goes without saying that everyone is vying for a piece of this prime real estate, and at the time of this writing, there are a few dozen producers who can claim parcels in Les Clos. If looking at a map of vine ownership, you may mistake it for a game of Tetris—welcome to Burgundy.
Grapes from Malandes’ 1.3-acre plot in “Les Clos” are harvested by hand after carefully monitoring their maturity—especially important in this cool climate. In the winery, both malolactic and alcoholic fermentation occurs in barrels ranging from one to five years of age. Afterwards, the wine ages in neutral French oak before being transferred into stainless steel for a short stint for a total élevage (aging) of 13-14 months. It was bottled at the end of 2017.
The wine displays a dense, pale yellow core with platinum and slight green glinting off the rim. Once it opens up with enough air, it has a ‘big’ smell. Perfumed notes of ripe yellow apple, bosc pear core, fruit curd, blossoms and salted white peach jump out, with crushed chalk and ground oyster shells immediately backing it up. The fruit is confirmed and highly prevalent on the palate, showing off impressive ripeness and lending to a well-rounded mouthfeel. This isn’t unctuos, but it is an incredibly textured wine with immense volume and length. It seems to get better by the minute with air, so please let it have plenty of time before consuming. I enjoyed watching this wine unfold over a few hours and I’d proffer the same advice to you—let it survive in your glass for as long as possible because there are so many hidden layers that are begging to open up. Decant for a minimum of 1 hour (ideally 2-3) then serve in large Burgundy stems and, as previously mentioned, feel free to lose this in your cellar for the next decade or two—it will certainly go the distance. Visit your local fish market and pick up a brawny looking lobster for this pairing. Follow the attached recipe for an unforgettable experience! Cheers!
