Before anything, I want to share that this is one of the most outrageously delicious and ‘young-drinking’ bottles of Cornas I’ve ever had in my glass. The first time we offered a vintage of this wine, we noted how the man behind it was “right on the cusp of becoming a huge star.” Well people, now it’s official. I’ve just returned from a week of tasting and dining throughout Burgundy and the northern Rhône Valley.
It seemed like no matter where I went, Gilles’ name was on the tip of everyone’s tongue and multiple vintages of his red wines adorned the best wine lists. Still, there’s more to this success story than hype and “insider” industry buzz. This is a wine not to miss; it is full of life and energy, with aromatics reaching near perfection. I had this alongside Chave’s Red Hermitage “Farconnets” (which we offered here recently to enthusiastic response) and they were neck-and-neck in quality.
Gilles farms one of the two most revered vineyards in the entire Cornas appellation: a site named “Chaillot” (keep in mind Thierry Allemand’s Cornas from this same vineyard retails for $150+/bottle!). He also enjoys one of the most impressive résumés in the region, having spent years working under Hermitage icon Jean-Louis Chave and the great Cornas traditionalist Robert Michel. For now—to the delight of many Sommeliers and collectors—pricing for these wines remains remarkably modest. However, there are less than 100 cases imported into the US annually and availability is very limited (especially after the two cases I load into my cellar each spring!). This 2013 vintage of Gilles’ top wine is an extremely rare example of top-tier Cornas that offers complete pleasure in its youth—but trust that it will only improve for another 15 years. Don’t miss out!
As a young man, Guillaume Gilles cut his teeth under the wise tutelage of Hermitage legend and global wine superstar Jean-Louis Chave. Thereafter, Gilles worked with the legendary Cornas producer Robert Michel, and when Michel retired after the 2006 vintage, he passed down his cellar and vineyard holdings to his young protégé. Since then, Gilles has followed in the footsteps of his mentors: all vines are farmed organically and by hand, and all fruit is left in whole clusters and fermented with wild/ambient yeasts before being aged in large neutral oak barrels. Despite the ever-rising pressure to produce riper, smoother, oakier and younger-drinking wines, Gilles has persevered as one of the last “purist” producers in Cornas—one of the most historically important Syrah-growing appellations in the world.
Fortunately, the international sommelier community has received Gilles’ staunch traditionalism with open arms. His wines increasingly grace wine lists in world’s top restaurants and I have enjoyed them at many industry parties and social events. In recent vintages, the international wine press has caught on and flattering scores and articles have followed. After all, it’s not possible to make wine this good in such a storied appellation before the whole world starts to notice.
The 2013 Guillaume Gilles Cornas has a deep, dark, almost opaque purple core moving to a dark purple rim. This wine is dark. It’s almost black, and about as visually concentrated a wine as I’ve seen from the Rhone. While young Cornas wines (especially those bottle by Gilles) tend toward dense, rocky, mineral aromatics that often take decades to melt away, this wine is absolutely bursting with luscious, three-dimensional fruit. Gorgeously ripe blackberries, black cherries and boysenberries are the first aromas out of the glass. Have you ever picked a handful of perfectly ripe and swollen blueberries and savored the moment as they burst in your mouth? That’s what this wine smells like. It’s joyful and expressive in a way that young Cornas seldom is. Still, this is Cornas, and there is far more to this extraordinary wine than fruit and sweet perfume; a deep layer of roasted meats, Kalamata olives, damp violet blossoms, and deep mineral/stone stone notes provide a sturdy foundation. On the palate this wine presents a brilliant contrast between immensely firm, granitic minerality crossed with remarkably soft, luxuriously textured fruit. It’s such a pleasure to drink, and the finish is endless. If enjoying this bottle young, I recommend decanting for 45 minutes and serving in a large Bordeaux stem at 60 degrees, ideally alongside a ‘black-and-blue’ ribeye or perhaps this
recipe for duck confit. Gilles has learned from his mentors, however, so rest assured this wine will only develop greater complexity and depth over the next 15-20 years. I have multiple vintages of this wine in my cellar and I encourage anyone who can provide optimal long-term storage to do the same.
