As you’ll see prominently on the label, this wine hails from Coombsville, a sub-section of the Napa Valley that Farella helped put on the map, literally and figuratively (the Coombsville AVA was only officially codified in 2011). Tucked into the southeast corner of the Napa Valley in the foothills of the Vacas Range—in the shadow of Atlas Peak and Mount George—Coombsville is a mix of volcanic ash and rock with ‘alluvial’ material (i.e. gravelly sand and loam deposited by river flows). Given its positioning, Coombsville is effectively the only Napa AVA—other than Carneros—to feel the cooling influence of the San Pablo Bay. This lengthens the growing season, leading to greater complexity in the grapes. As the Coombsville Vintners & Growers Association notes: “Daily average high temperatures can be as much as ten degrees cooler during the hot months than most other appellations, and heat spikes tend to be less severe. All of this limits dehydration, preserves acidity levels, and generally aids even ripening patterns.”

 

For all of his work with other producers, Tom Farella has always bottled his own wines, and these days he’s got winemaker Massimo DiCostanzo (assistant winemaker at Harlan Estate and, more recently Screaming Eagle) working alongside him. The 2013 is 95% Cabernet and 5% Merlot that was aged 22 months in French oak barrels, 50% of which were new. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Just 325 cases were made. Farella’s vineyard source for this wine is a west-facing, volcanic slope that enjoys the full effect of the San Pablo Bay, like all of his 26 acres in Coombsville.

 

Now with a little bottle age under its belt, this 2013 is seductive from the first smell and sip. It has an opaque purple/black core extending all the way to the rim, with aromas that add up to a master class in Napa Cabernet—it’s a modern style that retains old-school Cabernet traits. It effortlessly displays ripeness and richness without losing balance and freshness, which is tough to achieve. The brilliant nose first displays a big blast of cassis, followed by blackberries, black currant, raw cacao, red tobacco, dried violets, wild herbs, turned earth, and warm spices. It is full-bodied but nicely balanced on the palate, with fine-grained tannins and enough extract and acid to carry its alcohol with ease. Indeed, for all of its considerable heft, it doesn’t feel heavy or syrupy on the palate—as delicious and satisfying as it is to drink now, I think it will continue to improve in the cellar for 5+ years, likely peaking around 2020 (but it should go 20 years without falling apart). Decant it about a half-hour before serving in large Bordeaux stems at around 60-65 degrees, and most definitely seek to tame it with something suitably rich and layered. Braised meats are often the first thing I turn to with big, bold Napa Cabernets like this, and the attached beef cheek recipe should get the job done nicely—and cheaply! What a fitting “lesser cut” recipe for such a well-priced, over-achieving wine. Cheers!