The image on the label of this wine is a rendering of the Dentelles de Montmirail, a jagged mountain range in Provence whose western foothills include southern Rhône Valley wine villages such as Sablet, Gigondas, and Vacqueyras. Derived from the French word for “lace” and composed of Jurassic limestone, the “dentelles” are more than just a dramatic backdrop—they can influence wine style, particularly in vineyards that climb to higher altitudes.
Brothers Thierry and Gilles Faravel of Domaine la Bouïssiere believe that altitude is a key factor in setting their wines apart, and after we were blown away tasting their 2014 Vacqueyras, we’re inclined to agree. This is a southern Rhône red of uncommon brightness, one which defied our expectations in the best of ways. Rather than coating the palate in layers of syrupy extract, this Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre blend darts and dances like it’s from somewhere other than the hot, arid southern Rhône. In one sense, it is from someplace else—a high, rocky, north-facing plateau that benefits from cooling winds sweeping down from the Alps. This is a different setting than the typical Vacqueyras vineyard, and this is not a typical Vacqueyras wine. This is southern Rhône silkiness and saturated fruit mixed with northern Rhône energy and aromatics, and we loved it. Although beautiful now, this red is built to last and is a perfect candidate for those trying to curate a well-priced cellar. In 5-7 years you will be elated you bought this, I promise.
Since the 1960s, when Antonin Faravel started carving vineyards from the crumbling stone of the Dentelles, the family has been known as one of the pioneers of “high-altitude” viticulture in the southern Rhône. While most of us tend to think of Vacqueyras as “baby Châteauneuf-du-Pape” (a pretty fair descriptor), and while Bouïssiere’s vineyards contain some of the polished river cobble (galets roulés) of Châteauneuf, the topsoil here is thinner. Their Vacqueyras vineyard, in addition to being at a higher altitude, has a northwesterly aspect, which moderates sun exposure. The overall effect is to produce a higher-acid red with well-moderated alcohol and no ‘pruniness’ whatsoever.
The blend here is 48% Grenache, 34% Syrah and 18% Mourvèdre from old vines in the estate’s “La Ponche” and “Bel Air” vineyards (the Grenache is 54 years old). Farming sustainably and harvesting by hand, the Faravels take a very traditional approach in the cellar as well: This wine was 80% destemmed (the inclusion of some whole-cluster fruit helping to avoid over-extraction) and fermented using only ambient yeasts in temperature-controlled cement tanks. It was aged in a mix of used French oak demi-muids, smaller barriques, and cement tank, after which it was bottled via gravity, unfined and unfiltered, with the minimal sulfur addition possible.
In the glass, the 2014 Bouïssiere Vacqueyras is a deep, but not opaque, ruby moving to purple reflections at the rim. The nose is perfumed and assertive, mixing red and black fruits—red and black cherry, raspberry, and a touch of strawberry—with savory notes of lavender, wild herbs, licorice, olive, cured meat and crushed stones. The alcohol is very well-moderated and the acidity is perfectly balanced, and what may be most appealing is how each grape’s personality pokes out here and there—the cherry-candy red fruit of the Grenache; the exotic spice and backbone of the Syrah; the lavender scents of the Mourvèdre. While many of these “baby Châteauneufs” can be big boys indeed, this one is more in the weight class of a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. It’s ready to drink now and feels downright buoyant in a Burgundy stem at a cool-ish 60 degrees. As I mentioned above, this wine will age beautifully if kept well, but it will really hit a special place 5+ years from now if you can keep your corkscrew away. For pairing, there are so many options: roast chicken, bone-in ribeye or duck confit all work beautifully. I must say that my all-time favorite with a red of this style is cassoulet, a slow-cooked dish typically made with white beans, duck, bacon, beef stock, onions, sausage and many other treats. There are many renditions out there depending on the region of France you are in, but
here is one of my favorite recipes. It is well worth the time and something you will never forget.
