The term “vieille vigne” (‘old vine’) means different things to different people, but Jean-Marie Fourrier’s vineyards in Burgundy would meet anyone’s age baseline, I think—the vineyard sources for today’s wine range in age from 60 to 100 years, and Fourrier has made heirloom vines, and the use of selection massale (propagating vines only from one’s own cuttings), the central focus of his enterprise.
Since taking over Domaine Fourrier in 1994, Jean-Marie has turned it into one of Burgundy’s most sought-after labels, to the point where most US restaurants and retailers receive allocations in eyedropper quantities. But count me among those who will happily take whatever Fourrier I can get: These are Burgundies that meld concentration and finesse—lushness and lift—in a way that is downright magical. As expressed in the superb 2014 vintage, today’s Gevrey-Chambertin “Vieille Vigne” from Fourrier is polished and deeply profound Pinot Noir of the sort that turns people into Burgundy fanatics—and, all things considered, it is very reasonably priced. We are only offering this wine to our very top customers, with a limit of three bottles per customer; it is among the very best red Burgundies we’ve offered this year (or any other), so grab yours before it’s gone!
The extent to which old vines are central to Fourrier’s wines is reinforced by the fact that Jean-Marie sells off to
négociants all fruit harvested from vines younger than 30 years old. His importer, Rosenthal Wine Merchant, quotes him thusly: “Until a vineyard develops a root system,” he says, “it doesn’t develop flavor.” The source vineyard for today’s wine is a
lieu-dit (named vineyard) called “Champerrier,” which is situated at the northern end of Gevrey near its border with the village of Brochon, downslope from the Premier Cru “Champeaux” (check out the
map if you’d like to geek out further). Fourrier owns about three hectares of vines here, most of which were planted between 1928 and 1955, and they reliably deliver a wine with a big-boned, firm structure. Old vines, indeed.
Overall, Fourrier farms nine hectares of vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vougeot. His decisions both in the field and the cellar are informed at least in part by his apprenticeship with the Godfather of modern Burgundy, Henri Jayer, back before he took over the family property. He manages yields through careful winter pruning (rather than ‘green harvesting’ mid-summer), fully de-stems all grapes (after a rigorous sorting) before fermentation, and uses the minimum possible added sulfur, if any at all. This 2014 was aged 18 months in 20% new oak, a light touch which shows in the finished wine: the amount of fruit purity and concentration is just exceptional.
In the glass, the 2014 Old Vine Gevrey-Chambertin displays an opaque dark ruby core with a slight pink reflection on the rim. The nose is incredibly concentrated with ripe fruit that includes strawberry, black cherry and black plum laced with wet rose petals, wildflowers, forest floor and a touch of crushed wet rocks. Typical of the Fourrier style, the palate offers intense richness of fruit that is simultaneously balanced fresh acidity and supple, fine-grained, perfectly ripe tannins. You must experience this wine to understand the incredible complexity and depth. It needs to rest a bit to really hit its prime, but it won’t take long. Fourrier’s wines begin to hit a beautiful spot in their life just 4-5 years after the vintage. If drinking soon, please decant for at least 45 minutes to let the possible touch of carbon dioxide dissipate. The wine is delicious to drink young, yet will be twice as pleasurable at 5-7 years of age; I advise being patient, but if you can’t keep your hands off it now, pair it with your best
coq au vin and celebrate life’s small victories. We all need more of this right now. Cheers!
