If you are new to SommSelect, you may be asking, “what is Grower-Champagne?” Grower-Champagne is crafted by a “Récoltant-Manipulant” (Grower Producer), indicated by the acronym RM on the label, which means the wine is at least 95% derived from the producer’s estate. Owned, farmed and crafted by boutique families, these Champagnes are couture examples crafted by passionate vignerons as opposed to “Négociant-Manipulants”, the designation for most major champagne houses. In the case of Négociant-Manipulants, the wines can be made from 100’s of different farmers and can even lose the unique voice of terroir in each producer’s land in the process. Although a tête de cuvee from a grand old Champagne house can be incredible, there is something special about drinking a bottle produced from a particular piece of land.

At the core of this small family estate are Thierry Bonnet and his son Cyril. Six generations of the Bonnet-Ponson Family have been handcrafting fine Champagne since Grégoire Bonnet founded the estate in 1862. Today, their meticulously tended holdings comprise 10.5 hectares in three Premier Cru and two Grand Cru villages. Thierry and Cyril farm their treasured vines with strictly organic principles, which makes the pure sense of place all the more evident in the glass. Although there are many Grower-Champagnes that may demand an even lower price point, there are rarely examples that can offer this level of quality. It takes time, effort and exhaustive searching to find great examples at prices like these, but we have done the hard part for you. All you have to do is enjoy.

The Premier Cru Brut is an enchanting blend of 35% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Meunier and 30% Pinot Noir that is derived from the Premier Cru villages of Chamery, Vrigny and Coulommes-la-Montagne. Each site is protected from the harshest winds and severe cold due to their northeast-facing, hillside aspect. The sand, clay and calcareous soils deliver a distinct minerality to the wine, which is derived from 35 year-old-vines on average. The hand-harvested fruit is traditionally crafted in the estate’s deep cellars. Here, the wine is aged a minimum of three years and receives a moderate 10 grams per liter of dosage. These three distinctive vineyards and thoughtful winemaking practices translate to a cuvée of depth and complexity that culminates in near perfection in the glass.

The Bonnet-Ponson Premier Cru Brut displays a bright golden core with slight green reflections on the rim. The nose exudes aromatics of classic Champagne with notes of freshly baked brioche, baked yellow apple, dried lemon, a touch of pineapple and lime blossom infused with light oyster shell minerality. In Champagne terms, the palate is medium-plus in body and boasts a slightly creamy texture matched with beautiful freshness and the ideal touch of dosage that lends a slight hint of sweetness to the fruit, which is matched with bright acidity that is layered into lemon curd, lime zest, creamed yellow apple and rising brioche. Do not serve this wine too cold; ideally, release the cork 20 minutes before serving in all-purpose white wine stems or open-mouthed Champagne flutes. You are probably well aware by now of full-bodied Champagne’s ability to pair beautifully with just about anything; I recently experienced this beauty with a crab and fresh summer corn chowder and the result was simply unforgettable.