Didier Barral started Domaine Leon Barral with the passion and vision all true revolutionaries innately possess. Since the early 1990’s, at the genesis of this project, he has farmed his 30 hectares biodynamically - no matter how labor-intensive the toil requires. The results of his hard work have changed the way we look at the potential of the once underappreciated region. Located in the Languedoc’s appellation of Faugères, about an hour southwest of Montpellier and roughly 25 miles from the Mediterranean, Domaine Leon Barral works Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault almost entirely by hand. Through a natural relationship between the vines, natural vegetation and animal life on his property, he nurtures pristine fruit that is full of life with a voice of the terroir. Didier has a team of horses, pigs, and cows that graze in the vineyards and begin the natural symbiosis in which all nature thrives. I have found that in most vineyards, where there is a natural cycle of life, without the use of chemical fertilizers and sprays, the expression of place reaches a potential never matched by their neighbors. Such is the case here.
The first time I ever tasted a bottle of Didier’s wine was with a group of well-seasoned sommeliers with several years of experience on me. I had no idea what it was, where it came from or what it tasted like. After slowly enjoying the wine over the next few hours, I was stunned by every aspect of its beauty. I will never forget the potential of this producer and that wine experience – it simply stopped time. Crafted incredibly traditionally, the grapes for this wine are harvested by hand then predominantly destemmed with only a few whole clusters utilized in production. The must is fermented in a large wooden vat, using only natural yeasts, then pressed with an old traditional press into cement tanks where the wine ages for two years. The wines are never racked, filtered or fined, and no sulfur dioxide is added. The result is a magical expression of this special pocket of the Languedoc that is truly full of energy, power, and elegance.
The 2013 Leon Barral Faugères has an opaque dark ruby core that moves to light purple highlights on the rim. The incredibly complex nose is perfumed and dense with aromatics dominated by freshly picked wild blueberry, huckleberry, blackberry and black cherry over notes of garrigue, olive, licorice, underbrush and dried flowers. The full-bodied palate is ripe, dense and nuanced with black and blue fruits, layered with savory complexity that envelops the mouth with soft tannins and an incredibly fine minerality that reveals the deep roots of this vineyard, which was first planted in the 1940’s. A stunning beauty in its youth, the vast potential of this wine lies 5-15 years or more ahead. The fruit slowly moves away to reveal a savory nirvana you will never forget. 3-4 years will deliver a whole other expression of place and 15 years will capture its most magical moments. To enjoy absolute nectar in its youth, please decant about 30 minutes then serve at 60 degrees, in Burgundy stems. However, in its maturity, a Bordeaux stem will perform better. At roughly $30 a bottle, this wine over-delivers by a longshot and will result in one of the true treasures of your cellar. Ideally, enjoy six bottles over the next few years, then forget about the next six in the cold reaches of your cellar for a while. Your patience will be amply rewarded. For a pairing worthy of this concentrated gem, prepare
traditional Cassoulet and wait for pure enchantment.