The Veneto is a generous wine region that encompasses not only Amarone’s Valpolicella but also Prosecco, Soave, Bardolino and numerous other wines. Valpolicella DOC, for those of you unfamiliar with the appellation, is nestled just northwest of the ancient city of Verona towards Lake Garda and less than two hours from Venice. The stunning, lush valley of Valpolicella is comprised of small terraces that are bolstered by ancient rock walls called, “marogne.” It is here that some of Italy’s most prized and labor-intensive wines are produced. Before the grapes are even crushed and fermented, Amarone’s grapes endure a painstaking process called, “apassimento.” Following harvest, bunches of grapes are arranged in single layers on drying racks inside a fruttaio, or drying room, where they are tended and dehydrated for four months. This leads to an intensely concentrated, inimitable flavor profile, unparalleled density and significantly higher alcohol content due to very high sugar concentration. The process is quite labor intensive and ordinarily demands a pretty hefty price tag, but not today.
The Fattori’s Estate was founded by Antonio Fattori at the turn of the 20th century. Since 1970, his grandson, also named Antonio, has been at the helm of the family legacy. Throughout his tenure, he has sought to bring modern technology into the fold while still retaining the traditions that made his family name synonymous with quality. This unusually fresh example of Amarone is derived from a blend of the appellation’s indigenous varietals: 65% Corvina, 15% Corvinone, and 10% Rondinella while the remaining 10% is comprised of other allowed varietals. The 12-hectare Col de Bastia vineyard is nestled between the Val d’Alpone and Val d’Illasi and boasts shale clay and limestone soils at an impressive 450 meters above sea level. The fruit is hand-harvested then dried in small fruttaio for 3-4 months. The dried grapes are macerated and fermented in small, stainless steel vats then aged in 500-1000 liter oak barrels for 18-24 months. The result is an Amarone with all the beauty and richness of the famous wine with a balance and freshness that is hard to come by in the appellation.
The 2012 Fattori Amarone has a highly concentrated dark ruby core with slight orange reflections on the rim. Classic aromas of dried plum, dried red and black cherry and dried strawberry are deepened by secondary aromas of white raisin, dried fennel, cacao nibs, dried black mushroom powder, white pepper, leather, tobacco and dried clay. The palate is rich and balanced with perfectly refreshing acidity and soft, elegant tannins. This delightfully drinkable style doesn’t possess the overbearing sweetness and alcohol of many examples. The full-bodied texture is met with simultaneous freshness and offers the sweet spot of Amarone that will prompt you to reach for glass after glass. Nearing its peak, this beautiful wine will age another 3-5 years in the cellar if kept properly. For instant gratification, decant for 20-30 minutes and serve at roughly 60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. Service temperature is key due to the high alcohol levels in this wine. For a traditional Veneto pairing, serve this wine alongside
braised beef over polenta.
