This same John Williams, legendary producer of the Merlot varietal, has been quoted as saying, “Almost a decade (and several foreign language versions) later, I think Sideways may have saved Merlot and ruined Pinot Noir – how’s that for irony?!” With Miles’ oft-repeated line, “I am not drinking any f***ing Merlot!” growers all over California ripped up Merlot vines and moved in a different direction as the demand for one of the greatest and most classic varietals in the world crashed for a period of time. Fortunately, the over-cropped, fair-weather growers pulled their vines from sites that didn’t work for the varietal anyhow and left the dedicated vigneron-producers behind to deliver something enchanting. As John explains, “Planted in the right soil, farmed with respect and made with baby’s care, Merlot can make exquisite wine.” A definite example of this is his 1995 Frog’s Leap Merlot. Derived from Rutherford’s classic alluvial fan soils, comprised of gravel and sandy clay loam, it is actually quite similar to the composition of the right bank of Bordeaux’s Pomerol appellation where Merlot is the star that has kept producers like Chateau Petrus at such meteoric heights. If you love vintage right bank Bordeaux, this is an rare opportunity to purchase a piece of history.

 

Truly one of the most iconic producers of Merlot outside of Bordeaux, John Williams grew up on a dairy farm and took his Ag studies to Napa via the greyhound line. He fell in love with winemaking, completed his Master's at UC Davis then worked his first winery job at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars for the vintage that won the famous Judgment of Paris tasting. He teamed up with Larry Turley to start Frog’s Leap in 1981 and the rest is history. Together in 1988, John and Larry were among the very first estates to be certified organic in entire Napa Valley appellation. John purchased Larry’s interest in Frog’s Leap in 1993 and continued to push the envelope for quality and sustainability with solar power, green practices and dry farming, which not only conserves water and reduces soil erosion, it promotes resilient, healthy vines as well. A true visionary, John Williams crafts his wine in a traditional, elegant style that is on par with the quality of Bordeaux but delivers the unique voice of the Napa Valley. 

 

The 1995 Frog’s Leap Merlot displays a dark, garnet red core that quickly moves to light garnet and orange reflections on the meniscus; the sight appears much younger than I would anticipate thanks to its perfect storage conditions. The nose is classic, pure and floral as any twenty-year-old, world-class Merlot should be and boasts aromas of dried cherry, preserved plum and dried redcurrant woven with dried violets, dry bay leaf, tobacco, cedar, freshly turned earth, black mushroom powder and a touch of cocoa all integrated with the perfect level of oak spices. The palate is medium-plus in body with a silken mouthfeel and endless layers that envelop the senses with flavors of cherry, currants and a kiss of fruit laced with secondary flavors of dried earth, dried thyme, bay leaf, leather, tobacco and wet clay. The long and savory finish comes to a close at last with perfectly integrated oak and an intense satisfaction that continues to linger. Ideally, decant this wine for 15-30 minutes and serve at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems. The wine should blossom and stay in its peak between 30 and 90 minutes. As with most older wines, there may be a touch of mustiness immediately after you open the bottle that will quickly blow off and reveal a pristine, perfectly aged wine - so be patient. If you do not decant this wine, simply leave the cork out for 60-90 minutes and pour slowly into the glass to avoid sediment. Results and time can vary slightly depending on each bottle; so pay attention and try to enjoy the wine while it is peaking. Serve this iconic wine with a simplistic yet elegant meal like filet mignon alongside roasted herb potatoes and sautéed mushrooms and the wine will absolutely shine.