I would like to explain the term “Grower Champagne” for those of you who are unfamiliar with the term. Grower Champagne, labeled “RM” in small letters on the bottle, is Champagne’s equivalent of a bona fide farm-to-table experience. There are two major classifications of Champagne houses: the “Négociant-Manipulant,” labeled as NM on the bottle and “Récoltant-Manipulant,” labeled as RM. Négociant-Manipulant is a term that means the producer purchases some or all of the grapes used to produce the Champagne from a number of growers, usually small families, then makes the wine in-house; large, famous Champagne houses like Krug and Veuve Clicquot fall into this category. Récoltant-Manipulant indicates that 95% of the grapes for the label are grown by the producer on his or her own land; the 5% window allows for an ability to purchase a small amount of grapes from another grower, typically for the purchase of Pinot Noir grapes to makes rosé if the grower only grows Chardonnay. There are hundreds of small villages scattered across the ancient region. A visit to any one of these grower producers in any of the villages will likely deliver an intimate experience with the vigneron-winemaker and their family; these Champagne houses offer a greater connection to a particular village’s wines, similar to what you find in Burgundy. Although Grower Champagne does not always guarantee quality, it is most often a safe bet as these vigneron-winemakers are true wine auteurs that dedicate themselves to every miniscule detail of viticulture and production. Today’s producer is a perfect example of what I mean. 

 

Founded in the late 1800s, Champagne Hubert Paulet is a family-owned operation comprised of a small but carefully tended 8-hectares of vines that are located in the premier cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne. A meticulous vigneron and winemaker, Olivier Paulet currently serves as the fourth-generation steward of his family estate, which is perched on the northern side of Montagne (Mountain) de Reims in between the famous towns of Reims and Epernay. The premier cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne is one of the oldest wine-producing villages in Champagne thanks to the monks of the Abbey of Saint Rémy. The village boasts a variety of soils that enable the vigneron to match soil type to the varietal most suited to it. Olivier’s vineyard holdings comprise three soil types in which he grows three different varieties: Pinot Noir where there is a higher concentration of clay, Pinot Meunier in the sandier portion and Chardonnay in chalk. Determined to showcase the terroir, Olivier utilizes only natural farming practices including the usage of cover crops and organic approaches. He handcrafts all his own wine although half of his impeccable fruit is sold to the famous Billecart-Salmon. Fruit is hand-harvested then fermented in tile and stainless vats. It undergoes partial malolactic fermentation then is aged sur lie for 36 months, which is more than double the time required for non-vintage champagne. The wine, comprised of 50% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay, receives a modest 9 grams/liter dosage, which lends richness to the crisp acidity found in the wine.