If you were to start driving in Provence heading southwest, you would arrive at the beautiful coastline where the Languedoc-Roussillon region borders northeastern Spain. Domaine Gauby is located here, in the rural countryside about a two and a half hour’s drive northeast of the majestic city of Barcelona. This area here is basically an extension of the Catalan region of Spain, but on the French side of the border. The Gauby estate itself is situated in the tiny village of Calce, which boasts incredible views of the Mediterranean coastline, cool oceanic breezes, and a marine-influenced limestone soil composition that is perfect for viticulture. Although the region is largely under-appreciated, those who are really in touch with the French wine scene will absolutely recognize Domaine Gauby. It is interesting how many times this wine makes it onto the table when a group of sommeliers gather. Gauby is one of the most famous producers within France outside the more famous regions of the Rhone, Burgundy and Bordeaux.
Domaine Gauby is a longtime producer in this region; having inherited vineyards from his family, Gerard Gauby took it upon himself to improve the reputation of the region by farming biodynamic grapes and crafting natural wines of tremendous quality. He is a true pioneer in the region and a strict believer in biodynamic farming. This choice is the important key to the greatness he achieves at this estate. His vineyards are planted in limestone soils and are surrounded by an extensive amount of biodiversity. To keep in line with biodynamic farming practices, Gerard lets the land in and around the vines grow wild. Expansive views of undeveloped scrubland surround the vines like a miniature forest, helping to maintain a true sense of the region’s natural environment. In the vineyards, Gerard uses natural products like plant oils and compost to keep his vines, soil and land healthy. When a vine is in balance, the purity, energy and quality of the final wines become a greater sum than its parts. Gerard’s vines and wines showcase this harmony. The grapes are all hand picked and then sorted back in the cellar before undergoing a very traditional natural fermentation following being aged in vats on fine lees for eight months, before bottling without fining or filtration.
The 2012 Les Calcinaires has a captivating light golden yellow core, moving to green and gold reflections on the rim. The nose smells of heavenly crushed almonds, beeswax, wool, yellow apple, stirred lees, and dried pear. The palate also shares these characteristics, in addition to more complex flavors of lemon blossom, wilted yellow flowers, wet clay, white mushrooms, honey and bread dough with an incredibly pleasant very fine mineral quality. The body is full, round and creamy, but still retains desirable acidity which makes it absolutely perfect for food. This wine needs a bit of air so I would advise decanting for 30 minutes, then serving in large Burgundy stems at about 50 degrees. For food pairing, I would highly recommend pairing this wine with more intense food with plenty of fat, earthiness and texture. If I were cooking a recipe to be tailor made for this wine I would prepare find the best heritage Pork you can from your butcher and follow
this simple Roast Pork Loin Recipe served with roasted root vegetables. If you use great organic ingredients the result is amazing I assure you.