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Jean et Sébastien Dauvissat, Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons, Vieilles Vignes

Burgundy, France 2008 (750mL)
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Jean et Sébastien Dauvissat, Chablis Premier Cru, Vaillons, Vieilles Vignes


Sebastien Dauvissat’s family has been farming the same small collection of parcels near the hamlet of Chichée since the 1800’s. This small one man show produces between two and three thousand cases each year in the modest cellar underneath Sebastien’s house. As with all top sites in Chablis, Kimmeridgian limestone is the dominant soil type here—but there is also some clay and gravel contributing a unique character to the wines. Despite the domaine’s modest size, the family has holdings in some outstanding crus: Les Sechets 1er Cru, Montmains 1er Cru, Les Preuses Grand Cru—and Vaillons 1er Cru. The old vines section of this parcel is approaching 70 years of age, and in the top vintages—today’s 2008 being an outstanding example—it produces near perfect wines. Juice for this cuvée is pressed directly into barrel for fermentation and then racked into a mix of old (and a few) new barriques for extended aging before bottling and release. 

The 2008 Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Vaillons 1er Cru “Vieilles Vignes” is bright and golden in the center of the glass transitioning to near translucence at the rim. This is an impressively complex wine that offers a lot texture and character on the palate: crushed white stone, white flowers, and alternating layers of citrus and yellow apple acidity. Ultimately, this rich and detailed mosaic resolves in a lengthy, gently tapered, and almost imperceptibly honeyed finish. There is incredible focus to the fruit and architecture of the wine.  Still, its greatest attribute is its aromatics: behind a classically austere mineral core lie white peach, yellow apples, white truffles, orange oil, and vanilla bean. In order to enjoy this wine in its optimal state, I recommend decanting one to three hours or more before serving in a large Burgundy stem at 55 degrees. As always with any wine from the Dauvissat family tree, I advise drinking this bottle slowly. This is a fascinating chameleon of a wine that will evolve dramatically as you drink it. For pairings, this wine should be paired with something a bit richer than what you would typically think of for Chablis. One of my favorite pairings with an ageing Chablis like this is a delicately flavored fish prepared with Miso and Mushrooms. When all the flavors come together it creates a legendary umami laced experience. This recipe is a great guide to follow, although there are many ways to integrate these flavors.
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France

Bourgogne

Beaujolais

Enjoying the greatest wines of Beaujolais starts, as it usually does, with the lay of the land. In Beaujolais, 10 localities have been given their own AOC (Appellation of Controlled Origin) designation. They are: Saint Amour; Juliénas; Chénas; Moulin-à Vent; Fleurie; Chiroubles; Morgon; Régnié; Côte de Brouilly; and Brouilly.

Southwestern France

Bordeaux

Bordeaux surrounds two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which intersect north of the city of Bordeaux to form the Gironde Estuary, which empties into the Atlantic Ocean. The region is at the 45th parallel (California’s Napa Valley is at the38th), with a mild, Atlantic-influenced climate enabling the maturation of late-ripening varieties.

Central France

Loire Valley

The Loire is France’s longest river (634 miles), originating in the southerly Cévennes Mountains, flowing north towards Paris, then curving westward and emptying into the Atlantic Ocean near Nantes. The Loire and its tributaries cover a huge swath of central France, with most of the wine appellations on an east-west stretch at47 degrees north (the same latitude as Burgundy).

Northeastern France

Alsace

Alsace, in Northeastern France, is one of the most geologically diverse wine regions in the world, with vineyards running from the foothills of theVosges Mountains down to the Rhine River Valley below.

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