One of the greatest feelings in wine is being at the forefront of a brand-new, never-before-seen release, but even greater is experiencing a Grand Cru Rosé Champagne like no other. After 10 long years of undisturbed maturation, Gonet-Médeville has finally unveiled their 2009 “Cuvée Théophile” Rosé to the public. It’s as if they did it secretly too, as only a handful of people have laid eyes on today’s luxurious and fantastically rare Grand Cru bottling.
There’s a reason: This grand debut totals just 75 cases, most of which will never leave Europe. A few cases did, however, find their way into America, making you among the very first in the world to taste it. Seriously, consult your Champagne gurus and books—even they won’t have any knowledge of this bottle. That said, it’s only a matter of time before this gets into the hands of the world’s savviest wine minds and becomes an international sensation. We were allowed a single bottle to enjoy ourselves and upon tasting, each one of us was dumbfounded by its limitless depth, vinosity, and complexity. You’ll never forget this Champagne: It’s among the most moving, brilliantly powerful wines I’ve encountered in my career, and it belongs in the finest wine lineup imaginable. We were only allowed 48 bottles, so act fast and savor slowly; this is the pinnacle of luxury Grand Cru Champagne!
Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville are a power couple in the world of French wine: They are owners of today’s boutique Champagne estate; the inimitable Château Gilette in Sauternes (each vintage is held at least 15 years before release); and the sleeper superstar Château des Eyrins in Margaux, among others. Both worked under the direction of Julie’s parents for eight years until venturing out on their own, but it was Xavier’s side of the family who had stakes in Champagne. When his family’s parcels were being divvied up at the turn of the century, he opted for quality over quantity. As a result, you’ll only find Premier Cru and Grand Cru vines at Gonet-Médeville. With ownership in what seems like every shade and style of wine (sparkling, white, red, sweet), and families with extensive chronicles in Champagne and Bordeaux, they’ve quickly created a name for themselves. Their focus on small-production, conscientiously-crafted wines are among the best of any “newcomer.”
This rare gem comes from two of Champagne’s greatest Grand Cru vineyards: “Champ d’Alouette” in Le Mesnil and “La Grande Ruelle” in Ambonnay, both of which are a quick walk to Krug’s Clos du Mesnil (~$1,000) and Clos d’Ambonnay (~$2,500). Their combined holdings amount to just .5 hectares, and, along with Krug, they are the only producer to hold Grand Cru vines in both Ambonnay and Les Mesnil—prestigious company, indeed!
In 2009, their tiny, organically farmed crop of Grand Cru Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were harvested by hand and shuttled over to Gonet-Médeville’s winery in nearby Bisseuil, just east of Epernay. The grapes fermented and aged for several months in neutral French barrels and the resulting wine was then transferred into bottle, where it aged on its fine lees for well over eight years. It was finally disgorged in July of 2018 and dosed with an extremely light two grams per liter, thus qualifying it for ‘extra-brut.’ After corking, the 900 bottles continued resting in their cellar. Today’s microscopic batch arrived in America just last month.
What’s first apparent is the wine’s mystic orange-coral hue—this isn’t a friendly salmon-pink sparkler, but rather a vinous and deeply concentrated Grand Cru wine with a real story to tell, one that resonates long after the last sip disappears. The explosive nose reveals an intoxicating concoction of blood peach skin, Rainier cherries, pomegranate, white pear, and dried pineapple. Allow the wine to open up, however, and a whole new range of aromas unfurl: raspberry-filled brioche, almonds, dried pineapple, crushed minerals, chalk savory herbs, roses, honeysuckle. The profound, immensely vinous palate seemingly travels miles in such a small space. Its broad and voluptuous layers go on and on, with savory components racing alongside.
You can go about your routine of pouring into wide-mouthed tulips around 55 degrees, but I found it delivering insane levels of finesse and savor in my largest Burgundy stems after allowing many of the bubbles to dissipate. Further dimensions are unlocked when this wine loses some of its carbonation and creeps up to cellar temperature. There are three major crimes you can commit while experiencing this magnificent Champagne: drinking it alone, drinking it too warm, and drinking it too fast. I also recommend that you stow one away because this full-bodied Grand Cru rosé masterpiece will age 10-20 more years. Cheers!
