Jean-François Ganevat is one of the leading producers in the Jura. Based in the village of La Combe, the Ganevat family traces their winemaking heritage back to the 17th century. Jean-François, or ‘Fanfan’ as he is known, worked in Burgundy before returning to the domaine in 1998, subsequently converting his vineyards to biodynamics, applying both minimal SO2 and extended lees aging across a dizzying multitude of white and red cuvées. He has become a cult-superstar when it comes to biodynamic viticulture, working with extremely low yields. Demand outstrips supply every year regardless of the cuvée.  

This is a different breed in the glass with haunting depth and length from beginning to end. One will be lured into its steely hue to be taken by its sea spray freshness and subtle hints of quince. Dried white flowers, salted almonds, and crushed stones await in the wings. Spicy citrus entertains the saltiness remarkably well. With just two years of barrel age, this old-vine Sauvignon is expressive, allowing the fresh citrus and stone fruit to meld with the mineral drive. “Petit Curoulet” is all about intrigue, taking the best attributes of Sherry and top-cru Chablis all wrapped up in one. This is a baby right now. If you can’t wait, aerate for 30+ minutes at cellar temperature before serving.