You may have noticed we’ve gotten this far without mentioning the appellation most associated with Spanish sparkling wine, Cava. That’s because the appellation has seen commotion lately, as it expanded to encompass regions outside of its historical heart in Catalonia. Recaredo in particular spearheaded a new designation, Corpinnat. It’s a label reserved exclusively for elite producers working in the heart of the Penedés, with requirements for organic farming, hand harvesting, and long ageing. In short, in a category flooded with cheap supermarket brands, it’s a rock-solid guarantee of quality.

And producers, of still or sparkling wines, don’t get much more quality-focused than Recaredo. Josep Mata Capellades founded Cavas Recaredo in 1924. His sons still run the estate, with youngster Ton Mata set to take over in a few years. The family insists on bottling only bone-dry wines, many of which ferment in oak, and extend their aging regimen far beyond the appellation requirements. Furthermore, all wines are aged under cork—an exceedingly rare practice, even at top Champagne addresses—and every single bottle is disgorged by hand. These are deeply mineral wines that can call to mind top-notch Blanc des Blancs, but they’ve also got a sense of pure vinous concentration as a result of their warm growing conditions.

Why You’ll Love It

• The winemaking process for “Terrers” Brut Nature is frankly mindboggling. It’s 57% Xarel·lo, 25% Macabeu, 17% Parellada and 1% Monastrell sourced from sixty different vineyards. The grapes (organically farmed and harvest by hand, of course) were pressed into a mix of stainless steel and neutral oak for indigenous fermentation. It was then aged in bottle for close to four years before disgorgement.

• The nose is gorgeous, a heady mix of salted apples, pear skin, aniseed, lemon zest, honeysuckle, curry spices, and toasty brioche. While it bears some resemblance to Champagne, it is completely its own thing, with a palpable sense of warmth and generosity to it.

• On the palate, it’s mouth-coating and broad, with both fantastic freshness and richness. It leans into the toastier, nuttier notes here before closing with a blast of seaspray and white flowers. Just beautiful.

How To Enjoy It

• Enjoy as you would great grower Champagne – just below cellar temp (45-50 degrees), and definitely out of all-purpose glasses. You’ll want to appreciate the full range of aromas on display here.

• “Terrers” 2019 will continue to improve for a few years, but good luck; it’s so explosive and generous now, you’ll be lucky if it lasts that long.

• You could sub it in for Champagne and drink alongside oysters or trout almondine. But if you really want to go for the gusto, arròs negre – essentially seafood paella colored with squid ink and served with aioli – would be an unforgettable pairing.