Domaine de la Bergerie’s 36 hectares of vineyards are planted in the black schist soils of Anjou in the town of Champ-sur-Layon. In 1979, Yves Guégniard joined his parents in the family business, slowly moving the needle from humble wine farm to serious wine estate, acquiring supreme Chenin Blanc parcels in Savennières and the Grand Cru of Quarts de Chaume. The Guégniards have garnered wide acclaim for precision-crafted Chenin Blanc in all its forms, but the reds are hardly an afterthought. Since 2016, the entire Domaine de la Bergerie is “Agriculture Biologique” (certified organic), supported by the efforts of Yves’ daughters, Anne and Marie who, like magnets, were drawn back home to their winemaking roots in Anjou. 

The red grapes grow on warmer, heat-retaining schist soils mixed with silica and clay. Today’s wine, La Cerisaie, is Cabernet Franc from a single parcel in Champ-sur-Layon, fermented and aged in stainless steel only and brimming with freshness, floral aromatics, and life. There’s a combination of dark-fruited depth and utter ebullience that just makes you smile: In the glass, it’s a deep ruby with scarlet and purple reflections, with a farmer’s basket of black cherries, red-fleshy plums, blackberries, and red currants. It’s fruit first on the nose, but slowly the earthy notes unfold, with notes of black pepper, iron ore, and sweet green leaves. The wine is supple, gentle over the palate, not aggressive, fresh with dried pink flowers, a little peppery spice, and juicy-tart. It is harmonious right out of the bottle but has enough structure for short-term aging, perhaps 3-5 years, though it’s not likely to last long once you’ve tried a bottle: Decant it about 30 minutes before serving on the cool side of 60-65 degrees and serve it next to burgers, steak, roast pork, or even as a mouthwatering apéritif red with cured meats and cheese. Although it is not yet time for outdoor barbecue, I could see this wine playing a starring role in that scenario, next to a grilled skirt steak topped with lots of cracked black pepper. Just be ready to open a second bottle—once you start on this one, it’s hard to stop!