Having just returned from a whirlwind tour of Spain–hitting a good portion of the major regions in just a few days–I’m eager to share some discoveries with you. To kick things off I have a true modern classic from, where else, Rioja! I confess that before the trip I was not super familiar with Rioja Alavesa in general, and the winery of Viñedos de Páganos in specific. And wow, my eyes were opened! The Páganos team has for decades been on the cutting edge of Rioja wine production, effortlessly blending modern techniques with the region’s storied traditions, and focusing on meticulous, natural farming in the vineyards. Their special cru Gran Reserva, from a single vineyard called “El Puntido”, is the culmination of their work. At well over a decade of age now, this soaring, powerfully built, Tempranillo showpiece is just beginning to hit its peak drinking window, where it will remain for many years to come. The list of awards, high scores, and press accolades is long for this wine, but all you need to do is pop a cork and discover the magic for yourself!

The Eguran family has been farming grapes in the Rioja Alavesa area for over 150 years, but it was Guillermo Eguran who first made the decision to keep some grapes and make his own wine (instead of selling to the big producers) back in 1957 when he established Bodegas Sierra Cantabria. The name he chose is apt, as that is the small but impactful mountain range that lies on the northern border of the western half of Rioja, moving into Basque country. The steep, often terraced foothills here are some of the oldest vineyard sites in this famous wine region, and they are the backdrop to this subregion–the smallest of the three in Rioja–whose name “Alavesa” basically means “of the Basque country.” Most of Rioja, both Alta and Baja, are made up of soft rolling hills and plateaus that lie south of the Ebro river and are dominated by alluvial deposits and clay marl. But the “Alavesa” is north of the river, with soils that have increasing amounts of limestone and sand and sit at much higher altitudes than most of Rioja.

It is this special, and distinct terroir that inspired the Eguran family (ever the innovators and pioneers) to establish a new winery, Viñedos de Páganos, in 2001 that would be devoted exclusively to showcasing single vineyard wines sourced from their prime parcels above the beautiful, hillside towns of Páganos and Laguardia. These vineyards–comparable to Grand Crus elsewhere–are named “La Nieta” and “El Puntido.” The latter is our focus today, and the name refers to the step-like quality of the land where it is located, falling precipitously from the Sierra Cantabria to the Ebro river. Today it is Guillermo’s great grandsons Marcos and Miguel at the helm, leading up a top notch team who seek to produce wines that are both in tune with the long traditions of the family and their home in this part of Rioja, and look forward to a new focus on vineyard specificity and terroir transparency.

The Gran Reserva is sourced from the best, and highest elevation, vines in the “El Puntido” vineyard. These vines are dry farmed, organic, and about 50 years old on average. The Gran Reserva designation is a clear pathway to traditional Rioja, with long aging in barrels and bottles before release. However, in this case the barrels are pristine, new French oak instead of old American, and the focus on a single vineyard source is squarely in the “new wave” of Rioja practices. At 13 years and counting this powerful, yet expertly balanced Tempranillo shows off the classic proportions of the classically excellent 2011 vintage. Serve at cellar temperature in a large Bordeaux stem and you’ll notice a deep, garnet hue with an almost black core and just a hint of brick orange at the rim. The old-school aromas of dill and tobacco are present, but very much in the background. Up front are loads of Damson plums, crushed blackberries, and Morello cherries followed by cedar, cigar box, vanilla bean, dried herbs, and iodine flecked minerals. A classic pairing would be grilled lamb chops, served simply with good olive oil, salt, and some preserved peppers or roasted potatoes on the side. This is wine to enjoy now, with a good decant, and also a perfect candidate to sleep in the cellar for many years. Grab three to four bottles and you can do both!